How To Weld ... Learn How to Weld By Welding!

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What should happen is that—as a result of scratching the protective flux from the end of the electrode—current will flow through the rod, leap across the gap, and form an extremely hot (6,500°F) electric arc that melts both the end of the wand and the metal being welded. Because of the magnetic forces set in motion, the molten metal from the electrode travels across the arc and is deposited on the steel, mingling with that metal to form a weld.

Unfortunately, what will happen the first few times you try to strike an arc is what's called freezing: You won't lift the tip of the rod quite quickly enough, and the danged thing will stick and try to weld itself to the metal. A good strong twist should free the electrode . . . but if that doesn't work, turn the machine off, release the rod from its holder, and—after it has cooled somewhat—wiggle the stick free from the steel or knock it with a hammer, and start over.

It's likely that you will have to try again and again—freezing can be absolutely maddening for the beginner—but sooner or later you'll develop a smooth flick-of-the-wrist motion similar to striking a match, and you'll suddenly wonder why you ever found such a natural process difficult.

5. Electrode control is critical to a good weld. Eye-hand coordination is all- important because the length of the arc, as well as the speed at which the electrode travels, helps to determine the quality of the bead. 6. The completed weld shouls be evenly distributed, consistentm and even attractive. 7. Final grinding smoothes the metal for... 8. a perfect joint.

Exercise No. 1: Laying a Bead

Once you've struck an arc—and are consistently able to hold the stick close enough to the metal's surface to maintain the circuit—the heat and flow of molten material will continue until the rod is used up. But before you can expect to put this action to work to join two pieces of metal, you must learn to control the flow-fusion process . . . to the point where you can produce a symmetrical, deeply penetrating weld.

Developing this bit of eye-hand coordination can be somewhat like learning to walk a tightrope on roller skates in a wind, because the quality of the bead you produce will depend on how well you balance [1] the amperage setting, [2] the length of arc, and [3] the speed at which you move the electrode (known as rate of travel).

The amperage setting required will depend mainly on the thickness and type of metal you want to weld, and on the size of the electrode used to do the job. (The operator's manual will likely include a table of recommended rod sizes for given metal thicknesses.) For now, though, let's stick with our 1/4" steel and 1/8" rod . . . in which case an amp setting of between 85 and 115 will be appropriate. (Start at a setting of 90 amps and adjust up or down as you observe the results of each bead.)

Now, strike an arc (your face mask is down, right?) and hold the electrode so that it leans toward you at an angle of 70° or 80° to the work. Starting at the edge farthest from you, draw the electrode back toward your body. Don't try any side-to-side movement for now . . . just pull the rod back in a straight line, evenly and steadily: not too fast (speed will cause you to produce a weld that's shallow and too narrow) and not too slow (the material will pile up and ripple excessively). By looking closely, you'll be able to see a crater forming in the metal at the end of the arc; try to keep the flow of material into the back of that cavity smooth and consistent.

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