Cutting Wood (Safely!) With a Chain Saw

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Now suppose our large log is supported on both ends. The top side is the compression side and the bottom is under tension. To avoid splintered wood and a pinched bar in this situation, begin this cut with a one-third overbuck. Then finish the cut from underneath, with an underbuck (Fig. 6). Make both cuts at a slight angle so the bar isn't pinched in the kerf when the log settles. The top of the cut should angle slightly toward the end of the log that's being cut-that is, the short end. Another trick to avoid pinching the bar is to make the two cuts so they aren't directly opposite each other, but are still close enough for the log to come apart when the cut is complete.

Now let's say we have two logs that are both larger in diameter than the length of our guide bar. One log is supported on both ends, the other on only one end. In both cases, we'll have to make a number of cuts in sequence. The idea in sequence bucking of thick logs is to leave a break-off hinge of uncut wood in whichever third of the log is affected by compression.

Our first log is supported on both ends. Since the stress causes the compression to occur in the upper third of the log, that's where we'll want to leave our hinge. To buck this log (Fig. 7), first make a one-third cut on the far side. Then overbuck to leave a thin hinge in the upper third of the log. The third cut, on the close side of the log, brings the saw into position for the fourth cut, an underbuck. Finish with a fifth cut from underneath to take out the hinge. The log will then fall; watch your feet.

Our second log is supported on one end only, so we'll want to leave our hinge in the compressed lower third of the log to prevent splitting (Fig. 8). Again, make your first cut on the far side of the log. Make the second cut an underbuck to create the hinge. The third cut is on the close side, the fourth is an overbuck, and the fifth takes out the hinge from above.

Felling a Small Tree

Now let's practice cutting down a small tree. Pick one that's fairly straight, so we can control the direction of its fall. (It's very difficult to fell even a small tree against the direction of its lean.) Also, we want a tree that we're sure will fall in a safe direction, away from power lines, buildings, cars, and such.

Next, study the tree as you're walking toward it. Try to estimate its center of gravity, its direction of lean, and which side is most heavily weighted with branches. Now make sure that no one will come within the radius of the tree in any direction. Then clear a large area all around the tree. Clear away any brush or debris that could catch fire, trip you, or cause kickback. Clear an escape route away from the planned direction of fall and at a 45° angle to it (Fig. 9). Don't plan on running directly opposite to the direction of fall, since the tree may well fall exactly opposite to the way you planned.

The notch determines and controls the direction of the tree's fall. The felling cut removes most of the wood still holding the tree and causes it to break and topple. The notch and the backcut must always be made so as to form a hinge of uncut wood (Fig. 10). As the tree falls, it pivots on this hinge, breaking it. Never cut all the way through any standing tree with a single cut, no matter what the tree's size.

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