Cutting Wood (Safely!) With a Chain Saw
July/August 1986
By Walter Hall
From Mother Nos. 54 and 55
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Mother's Handbook
By Walter Hall
Rural author Noel Perrin once said, "If I were to move to an old-fashioned farm, everything quaint and handmade like a scene from Old Sturbridge Village, and could bring just one piece of modern machinery with me, I wouldn't hesitate a second. I'd bring my chain saw." Perrin was right—a chain saw is that important to country living. And as far as MOTHER's concerned, Barnacle Parp's Chain Saw Guide is that important to proper chain sawing. Over six years ago, in issues 54 and 55, we excerpted two hefty chunks of Walter Hall's entertaining, readable, and—most important—useful woodcutting manual. (Parp, by the way, is Hall's experience-wise sawyer self.) In fact, when the book went out of print a couple of years ago, we decided it was too good to let die . . . so we got Walter to update it a bit and then reprinted it ourselves!
Parp's Guide remains the standard handbook to selecting, using, and caring for that dangerous, but well-nigh indispensable, machine—the chain saw. So we're very-pleased to have the chance to re-present here in issue 100 some of this basic—and vital—information on working up wood. Safe cutting and warm fires to you!
Hazards
Many aspects of chain saw work present potential threats to your health and safety. First is the obvious danger of the cutting attachment itself. It is meant to cut wood. It will also cut meat. When you operate a chain saw, you must constantly be alert and take whatever precautions you can. A lot of things can go wrong.
Kickback is the most common cause of wounds. It causes 30% of all chain saw injuries. Kickback occurs when the chain, as it speeds around the upper part of the nose of the bar, comes into contact with something solid (Fig. 1). When the chain is at the upper third of the nose, it can't cut efficiently, and its movement forces the bar back and up, in the direction of the operator. If for any reason you have to cut with the nose of the bar, be sure to start the cut with the lower part of the nose, and be sure the saw is running at high speed as the chain touches the work. You should definitely avoid boring or using the nose of the bar until you are familiar with operating chain saws.
When you operate your chain saw, be alert for kickback at all times. Always cut with your left elbow locked or with your arm as straight as possible. Cut only one log at a time. Take every precaution to be sure that the nose of your bar does not touch anything. Always cut as close to the engine end of the bar as possible. Use your saw's bumper spikes to grip the wood and to provide pivot and balance for your saw.
Another problem caused by the chain is the pull or push that occurs when the chain catches in the work at the middle of the bar (Fig. 2). Push occurs when the top of the bar hits the log; the chain catches in the wood, and the saw is forced violently back toward the operator. Similarly, pull occurs when the work is forward of the bumper spike; the chain catches and violently pulls the saw forward until the spike hits the wood. These two hazards are most likely to occur if the saw is not running at full speed as the chain hits the work, or if the operator isn't holding the saw firmly.
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