Mother's Table Saw Survey

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Next, look at the rip fence guides. Better saws have two tubular rails-one in front and one in back-that the fence locks to simultaneously. Some have a single front rail of angle or flat iron that's also accurate, while others rely upon an edge built into the tabletop. The whole idea is to keep the fence parallel with the blade. A fine-adjustment knob and a positive lock are very convenient, as is a scale built right into the rail so you don't have to measure distances from the blade itself.

Check out the miter gauge as well; it should move smoothly, without slop. A movable control surface is a nice feature, since it can be adjusted for work of various sizes . . . and a stop block on the gauge helps support the stock, too.

The blade carriage assembly just might be the most critical part of the saw, since it holds the blade to the table and governs its angle and height. Again, a cast-iron unit would be the first choice, though it comes at a price. Cast aluminum runs a close second, and stamped steel third (though the latter does have a significant cost advantage).

While we're on the subject, it'd be worth your while to double-check the method used to adjust for angle cuts. A tilting-arbor setup (in which the blade axle moves and the table stays stationary) is used almost exclusively. If you run across a saw on which the table tilts, remember that the work tilts with it and might be difficult to handle.

Closely related to the carriage assembly is the power-drive mechanism. On a motorized saw, the blade is fastened directly to the motor shaft. This method lowers manufacturing costs but puts stress on the shaft bearings, increases vibration and noise, and limits the blade elevation. A better alternative is the more expensive motor-driven design, in which one or more belts are used to drive the blade, which is mounted on a separate arbor.

Finally, pay attention to the motor type and specifications. The figure most bandied about is horsepower, which can be misleading if you don't understand how it's measured. Sometimes, manufacturers will quote peak, or developed, horsepower values, which aren't a true yardstick because they indicate power under no-load conditions. Instead, look for a rated, or continuous, horsepower figure, which is an in-use, real-world standard. As a double check, ascertain the machine's amperage rating; a 110-volt motor must draw at least 10 amps to develop 1 continuous horsepower. (On a 10-inch saw, a 1-HP motor might be too small. In general use, a power plant of 11/2 rated horsepower would be better.)

In addition to power ratings, there are a few other things to look for in a motor. Consider a 220-volt unit if you want a heavy-duty shop tool (3-phase motors are generally found on saws designed for industrial use). Determine whether its housing is drip-proof or totally enclosed . . . the latter costs more, but provides the windings with protection against sawdust and moisture. While you're at it, check to see if the motor has a reset button (and hence is overload-protected) and whether it's an induction type or a brush-equipped, serieswound (universal) model. The brushless ACinduction type maintains a fairly constant speed under load and requires min imal maintenance. Finally, compare shaft bearing construction. Bushing or sleeve bearings are inexpensive and quiet, but ball bearings function better under load.

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