Erecting a Pole Building
(Page 9 of 10)
Steel usually comes in a 32" width, which covers 30", and
in lengths up to 18' . Aluminum comes in 36" and 38" widths
and can be special-ordered in lengths up to 28' . Steel and
aluminum are applied in the same manner, so the following
instructions apply to both.
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The most important part of putting on a metal roof is
starting the first piece square to the eaves. Allow a 1 "
overhang at the eaves, making sure the measurement is the
same on both sides of your piece. Fasten steel with
galvanized roof nails and aluminum roof nails; these nails
are ribbed and have a neoprene washer to seal them. Nail
through the high ridges of the metal, drawing the nail
tight enough to bring pressure on it without flattening it
(Fig. 28). Each successive piece overlaps the preceding
one; nail through both pieces.
Check as you apply each piece to see that the overhang is
running the same; if the pieces begin to run unevenly, you
will have to pull them. Let us say that on one piece you
have an overhang of 1" on one side, and 1-1/2" on the
other. To even this out, use a hammer to pull the metal
straight. If you wish to take the metal back toward the
eaves, push the metal at the top-causing a slight hump-and
nail; then, on the bottom, stick the claw of your hammer in
the rib and pull the metal toward you. -If you are short on
the far edge and need to bring the metal out from the
eaves, reverse the procedure (Fig. 29).
When cutting metal, get a good metal blade for your
circular saw or turn an old plywood blade backward and use
that. Protective goggles and earplugs are a must. Aluminum
can be cut with a pair of tin snips.
If two lengths of metal are needed to reach the peak, be
sure the top piece is put on last and overlaps the bottom
by 4" or 5".
At the top the two sides will not join together tightly,
making a ridge cap necessary. The cap is specially designed
to fit the metal you are using and will be either a one- or
two-piece cap (Fig. 30). With the cap on, a metal roof is
complete.
A plywood-and-shingle roof does not require purlins, as
plywood is nailed directly to the rafters. Measure up on
both end rafters approximately 47" and strike a chalk line;
this will leave a 1" overhang to allow for the fascia. Run
the plywood on this line, spacing the rafters 2' on center
as you go. Nail with No. 6 common or box nails. When the
next row of plywood is applied, stagger the joints so they
don't coincide with those of the previous row (Fig. 15).
When the plywood is on, cover it with 15-pound felt (which
comes in rolls and is stapled to the roof as an
undercoating for the shingles). Next, nail aluminum or
galvanized drip edge around the edge of the roof, and then
begin shingling. We will not go into detail on shingle
application, as most bundles have excellent directions. If
you desire further explanation, consult your library for a
book on roofing.
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