Erecting a Pole Building

(Page 9 of 10)

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Steel usually comes in a 32" width, which covers 30", and in lengths up to 18' . Aluminum comes in 36" and 38" widths and can be special-ordered in lengths up to 28' . Steel and aluminum are applied in the same manner, so the following instructions apply to both.

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The most important part of putting on a metal roof is starting the first piece square to the eaves. Allow a 1 " overhang at the eaves, making sure the measurement is the same on both sides of your piece. Fasten steel with galvanized roof nails and aluminum roof nails; these nails are ribbed and have a neoprene washer to seal them. Nail through the high ridges of the metal, drawing the nail tight enough to bring pressure on it without flattening it (Fig. 28). Each successive piece overlaps the preceding one; nail through both pieces.

Check as you apply each piece to see that the overhang is running the same; if the pieces begin to run unevenly, you will have to pull them. Let us say that on one piece you have an overhang of 1" on one side, and 1-1/2" on the other. To even this out, use a hammer to pull the metal straight. If you wish to take the metal back toward the eaves, push the metal at the top-causing a slight hump-and nail; then, on the bottom, stick the claw of your hammer in the rib and pull the metal toward you. -If you are short on the far edge and need to bring the metal out from the eaves, reverse the procedure (Fig. 29).

When cutting metal, get a good metal blade for your circular saw or turn an old plywood blade backward and use that. Protective goggles and earplugs are a must. Aluminum can be cut with a pair of tin snips.

If two lengths of metal are needed to reach the peak, be sure the top piece is put on last and overlaps the bottom by 4" or 5".

At the top the two sides will not join together tightly, making a ridge cap necessary. The cap is specially designed to fit the metal you are using and will be either a one- or two-piece cap (Fig. 30). With the cap on, a metal roof is complete.

A plywood-and-shingle roof does not require purlins, as plywood is nailed directly to the rafters. Measure up on both end rafters approximately 47" and strike a chalk line; this will leave a 1" overhang to allow for the fascia. Run the plywood on this line, spacing the rafters 2' on center as you go. Nail with No. 6 common or box nails. When the next row of plywood is applied, stagger the joints so they don't coincide with those of the previous row (Fig. 15).

When the plywood is on, cover it with 15-pound felt (which comes in rolls and is stapled to the roof as an undercoating for the shingles). Next, nail aluminum or galvanized drip edge around the edge of the roof, and then begin shingling. We will not go into detail on shingle application, as most bundles have excellent directions. If you desire further explanation, consult your library for a book on roofing.

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