Erecting a Pole Building

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Use the bottom plate for reference when locating the top plate. For an 8' eave height, measure up from the top of the bottom plate 7' 9" on each pole, and mark across the face of the pole with a try square. When marking eave heights other than 8', subtract 3" and mark as already described. The lines represent the top of the plate; run your plank to them and nail as you did the bottom. These planks should be untreated 2 X 10's. After the plate is nailed all around the building, use your try square to mark each pole on the inside the same height as the outside plate. Nail another plate around the inside of the building, making a double top plate (Fig. 10).

Now, 45° bracing can be placed between the poles to strengthen the building (Fig. 9). Come down 18" or 2' on each pole to locate one end of the brace. The brace should be made of a 2 X 6 with a 45° angle cut across one end. The brace will go up between the two top plates; nail into the brace with No. 16 common nails. Use the first brace as a pattern to mark the rest with.

At this point, the poles that stick above the top plate can be cut of. This can be done with either a sharp handsaw or a chain saw. If you are using a chain saw, observe all safety precautions. It's better to be safe now than sorry later.

Side Girts

The method of framing the walls is another area in which pole building differs from conventional construction. Instead of vertical studding on 16" centers, 2 X 4's are run across the poles horizontally (Fig. 11). These 2 X 4's are called girts. Girts are placed 24" on center measuring up from the bottom plate. It is best to measure on each corner pole and strike a line to keep the girts level across the building.

The only place studding will be necessary is in the rough openings for windows and doors. On either side of a window or doorway there must be a pole or a stud. The distance between these studs is determined by the rough opening width of your door or window. Studs are 2 X 6's placed in between the two top plates and down vertically to the bottom plate (Fig. 12). Studs should be leveled with a 4' level.

To complete the framing, run pieces of 2 X 6 horizontally at the top and bottom of your rough opening-for doors, of course, just at the top. The studding can be done before the girts are put on, and the girts cut out of the opening, or the girts can be cut to the opening and put on after the studding is in. When the studding and girts are installed, cut blocks to run around the opening to bring the entire face of the opening flush to the girts (Fig. 13).

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