Erecting a Pole Building
(Page 10 of 10)
Siding
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There are many types of siding available. I'll discuss the
three most common: boardand-batten, metal, and sheathing.
Most rural areas will have a small independent. sawmill
where you can buy rough-cut lumber at a substantial
reduction over lumberyard prices. The planks, usually 1"
thick, will vary in width and are sold by the board foot.
You will also want a quantity of 3" or 4" battens cut.
The boards are started on a corner of the building, with
the planks leveled vertically as they're applied. Number 7
or 8 cement-coated nails are best suited for applying this
type of siding. The planks should run down onto the bottom
plate without covering it completely (Fig. 31). When the
planks are in place, the windows and doors should be placed
in their openings and secured. Next, the battens are
positioned over each joint. Rough-cut lumber will dry and
shrink, so it's important that the battens adequately cover
the joints (Fig. 32).
In siding as in roofing, the metals, steel and aluminum,
will be discussed together, as they are applied in the same
manner.
Before you begin siding with the metals, set your windows
and doors. Each window and door should have a drip cap
across the top and J channel down the sides and under the
bottom of the window; this allows the cut edges of the
siding to be covered (Fig. 33).
Start at a corner, making sure the siding is level. When
applying the metals as a siding, nail through the flat
valleys instead of the ribs, except ad the joints where the
two pieces overlap. Use the same kind of nails as you did
on the roof. Always start at the bottom so any higher
pieces will overlap the lower. When the sides are on, put
on the corner caps, which are 6" X 6" L-shaped pieces.
Also, if your roof doesn't have an overhang, you will run
this material along the roof and the siding (Fig. 34).
The last type of siding is sheathing: 4' X 8' pieces of
plywood. The most commonly used is Texture 1-11, a heavy
plywood with a rough grooved surface. Again, start from a
corner and level your piece. You may want to put in backing
blocks between the girts where a joint is located; this is
optional but considered a good practice (Fig. 35). After
the siding is on, set the windows and doors.
When cutting the angle of the roof pitch on any of these
materials, use your framing square to set your angle. If,
for instance, you have a 4-12 pitch, place the foot mark on
the low corner, go up 4" on the other angle, mark it, and
draw a line from the corner through the mark.
EDITOR'S NOTE: The book from which this article was
adapted-Pole Building: A Step by Step Guide, by
Norm Ecker, Sr., and Jeff Flanders-contains all of the
information presentd in this Homestead Handbook
plus plans for a 30' X 40' X 12' tool shed . . . a 24' X
24'X 8' two-car garage . . . and a 20' X 40' X 8'
four-horse barn. If you feel those plans wouldhelp you in constructing your own pole building, the
book can be ordered for $4.95 plus $1.50shipping
and handling from MOTHER'S BOOKSHELF, 105 Stoney Mountain
Rd., Hendersonville, NC 28791.
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