Chain Saws:

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Buying A New Chain Saw: I am no different from most folks. I love to take a bright, shiny new saw right out of the box and fit the bar and chain onto it. It's a new toy. But new saws are expensive, and buying one should be treated as seriously as making any other major purchase.

I happen to prefer the European-made saws. But I hasten to add that a preference in a chain saw is just that ...a preference. I have found that the automatic oilers, vibration isolation, quietness, safety features, and overall design of the European saws generally surpass those of saws manufactured elsewhere. But American saws are getting better all the time, and, once again, you should buy whatever brand of saw suits you and your specific needs. I know people who own almost any brand of saw that you could name, and most of them swear by whatever kind of saw they have ...or they get rid of it pretty quick. The best thing you can do is to read the chain saw liter ature, talk to owners-both professionals and once-a-year firewood cutters-talk to an unbiased chain saw repairperson (that is, one who doesn't deal in a certain brand) ...then make your choice, pay your money, and learn how to protect your investment.

CHAIN SAW USE AND MAINTENANCE TIPS

Whether you purchase a used, rebuilt, or new saw, the very first thing you should do once you get your new tool home is to read the owner's manual. Study that little book! The manual will tell you most everything you'll ever need to know about the care and Maintenance of your saw.

Get used to the idea that chains dull fast and must be kept sharp to prevent premature chain, bar, and sprocket wear. If you're wellheeled, purchase an extra chain so that you'll have one to work with while the other's in the shop being professionally sharpened. Otherwise, learn how to sharpen chain-saw chain yourself. Either way, keep that chain sharp!

Almost all modern saws have a centrifugal clutch, which is composed of a clutch drum riding on a sprocket. The clutch system spins on "caged roller bearings," which have to absorb all those RPM. Consequently, the clutch bearings need periodic applications of grease ...like when you first get the saw, and about every 20 hours of use thereafter.

Sprocket-nosed and roller-nosed guide bars also need to be greased regularly. Use a standard grease gun to lube the nose bearings before each day of woodcutting. And if you really want to do it right, you can buy a needle-nosed fitting for your gun that will enable you

to shoot the lube into the bearings, rather than just onto them. If you happen to own one of those needle-nosed chain saw oilers that use 90-weight oil instead of grease, keep in mind that because oil is thinner than grease, it burns and slings of fasterand thus needs to be replenished more often.

Keep in mind, also, the machinist's adage "Oil is cheaper than steel!" Use plenty of oil on the bar (by adjusting the automatic oiler, or by giving your thumb a good workout if you have a manual oiler), and keep an eye on the pump to make sure it hasn't shut down right in the middle of a day's woodcutting.

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