CLEANING UP WOOD HEAT FOR 1982-83

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[6] Silver-solder (with 3/32" prefluxed 45% silver solder, Balkamp No. 770-2560, retail: 800) an 8-32 nut to the inside of a 3/8" fender washer. This will serve as the adjustment knob, and should be threaded onto the adjustment diaphragm that was assembled in Step 5.

[7] Trim the threaded portion off a No. 50/52 Gold Seal hose clamp to leave 7-1/2" of solid (unslotted) metal. Bend the strap, forming a 2-1/4"-diameter circle by overlapping its ends half an inch. Then clamp the hoop in locking pliers and drill a 1/8" X 1" hole through the center of the overlapped area. Silver-solder a 1/8" X 1" tube into the bore, and fill between the overlapped ends with the material at the same time.

[8] Place two drops of two-hour-set epoxy on each diaphragm's plunger shaft end, to seal the junction between the shafts and the metal washers that the rubber is attached to. Go on to epoxy the two diaphragm housings to the 2-1/4"-diameter, 1/2"-wide ring. Set the assembly aside to dry.

[9] Cut out two 5 "-diameter metal disks (we used 1/16" aluminum, but other metals of similar strength would be acceptable) . . . clamp the two plates together . . . and drill three 3/16" holes, positioned 1/4 inch in from the perimeter and evenly spaced around the circles. Then bore a 5/32" hole exactly in the middle of the joined disks. Deburr the holes, and mark each plate for position during assembly.

[10] Bolt the two disks together, spacing them with a 10-32 nut and six 3/16" flat washers on each 10-32 X 1-1/2" screw.

[11] Check the squareness of the two 5/32" holes by slipping the shaft of the control diaphragm through them. Then lubricate the holes and shaft with light grease, epoxy the tabs on the control diaphragm to the plate, and let the assembly dry.

[12] Drill a 5/32" hole in the center of a clean one-quart paint can lid (they're usually available free from paint stores), and attach it to the control diaphragm shaft with two 8-32 nuts. (The sealing lip of the lid should seat against the stove when the finished unit is installed.)

[13] Mount the assembly to your heater, either by drilling the door or by attaching it to an adapter plate that screws to the mount for your old damper. Position the thermostat at whatever distance from the sealing surface causes the valve to be pushed in 1/16 inch. This level of pressure insures shutdown in the event of a leak in the system.

[14] Bend the sensor — which consists of a 4" length of 1/2"-I.D. soft copper tubing — 180°, on a 2" radius, at the 2-foot point (using a spring-type tubing bender available for less than $2.00 at most hardware stores) and then 90°, on a 4" radius, at each end . . . so that the ends point at right angles to the plane of the rest of the tubing.

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