THE PROPER CARE OF NATURAL FIBERS

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. . . SILKS . . .

Silk is, of course, far more delicate than either cotton or wool, but it will respond favorably to home cleaning. I simply handwash my silks — one at a time — in shampoo and cool water, and then use a tablespoon of vinegar in the rinse basin. Once the garment is clean, I gently squeeze the water out (because vigorous wringing would encourage wrinkles) and roll the damp item in a dry towel for half an hour or so.

Because of its delicacy, silk must be pressed rather gingerly. Set the iron on "low" (or on the "silk" setting if your appliance has one), and be sure to use a pressing cloth. Start while the silk is still slightly damp, and begin by ironing, carefully and gently, on the wrong side of the fabric. Then turn the garment and press it lightly (still using the protective cloth) on the right side.

Since I don't own any brightly colored silk clothes, I haven't tried my at-home method for cleaning such items. I have heard, however, that the dye in deeply hued silk cloth has a tendency to streak and mottle . . . so you may want to try a "patch test" on an out-of-the-way section of the garment or a similar scrap of cloth before using my technique on your valuable silks .

. . . AND LEATHER

Leather, despite the fact that it's quite durable, needs loving attention if it's to give you long service. The job isn't a difficult one, though . . . in fact, leather will stay soft and supple if you follow two rules: Keep it clean . . . and keep it oiled.

As with fabrics, it's important to prevent dirt and grime from working into the hide's grain. I use ordinary saddle soap to clean my leather shoes, boots, belts, purses, and gloves. To do so, just dampen a rag thoroughly, lather up the soap, and rub the item well until all traces of grit are gone. Then take another clean, wet rag and wipe off the soap film. Finally, rub the surface dry with a soft towel, and oil the leather.

There are a great number of appropriate lubricants on the market, and all that I've tried have worked well. In fact, I've even used petroleum jelly on leather goods (and Grandma often used lard). Whatever emollient you apply, be sure to rub it in thoroughly, especially around the seams. [EDITOR'S NOTE: One of MOM's staffers who has worked with saddlery says that many oldtimers prefer to use animal-derived products for conditioning fine leather items. Mink oil and pure neat's-foot oil both do superior jobs.]

During the winter, I grease my boots every other day or so to protect them from the constant salt and slush of city sidewalks. I first wipe them to remove any salt residue, then coat them well with oil and rub it in. And about once a week, I clean the footgear completely, using saddle soap, and follow the washing with yet another greasing. This treatment has kept my boots supple, waterproof, and free of salt stains for the past six years.

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