KNOW YOUR FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Enlarge Image Image Gallery FROM LEFT: A close-up of the apparatus I constructed to convert the family washing machine into a cider press. The plywood brace fits around the agitator shaft, and the PVC""fruit chute"" directs the apples to the . . . shredder, which is made from the plywood and over 400 panel nails . We line the washer basket with nylon and fiberglass to prevent the pump's clogging with pulp. (PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR) STAFF PHOTOS

Would you be prepared if a fire broke out in your home this evening? Unfortunately, you probably wouldn't . . . because it's estimated that some 90% of America's households have only the bare-bones minimum (that is, a supply of water and a garden hose) with which to combat a residential conflagration.

Of course, it's never a good idea to try to fight a blaze without calling the fire department. But whatever you can do to extinguish, knock down, or even contain a small fire before it gets out of control (and while you're waiting for the pros to arrive) might mean the difference between minor smoke damage and the loss of your home.

And the best way to protect your dwelling (and yourself) is to expect a fire to occur . . . and to equip your home to a level of defense that's both within your budget and effective enough to do some actual good should the need arise.

Naturally, having fire protection equipment on hand is no justification for inviting an accident to occur in your dwelling . . . and taking such simple steps as not overloading electrical circuits, keeping work areas clean and free of oily rags, storing flammables in approved containers, and flipping off circuit breakers before vacating the house will greatly reduce the chance that an unexpected blaze will ever occur. (As a second line of defense, smoke alarms — either the 110-volt or the battery-operated kind — can alert you and your family to danger before the situation becomes life-threatening.)

However, even if you take every sensible precaution against the common troublemakers, fire could still strike your home. Ideally, therefore — in case the worst should happen — you'll have the right equipment on hand and know how to operate it.

WHAT ARE YOU BUYING?

The fire extinguisher field is often somewhat confusing to individuals who aren't familiar with such devices. To begin with, the units are classed according to the types of conflagrations they're designed to handle. There are four basic kinds of fires, each of which depends upon a different material for its fuel source and each of which is designated — for convenience — by a letter.

A: ordinary combustibles... including wood, cloth, paper, rubbish, and plastics.

B: flammable liquids. . . such as paint, grease, oil, gasoline, or certain solvents.

C: electrical equipment. . . a category that includes wiring, motors, control panels, and electrical components.

D: burnable metals and metaloids. . . comprising materials which, for the most part, are found only in industrial applications.

Of course, since most of us are primarily concerned with residential protection, we can pretty much ignore the D category fire (it would require a special extinguisher). The other three classes, however, can all pose threats to your household. Take a look around . . . both to see how much potential fuel exists and to note where it's concentrated. Chances are you'll find Class A material just about everywhere, and small amounts of B and C fuels concentrated in specific locations (in your garage or workshop, at the electrical service entrance, under the sink, in the furnace room, etc.).