TURN TRASH INTO TREASURE
(Page 2 of 6)
PROSPECTING TECHNIQUES
Once you've identified a general locale that looks
promising, you'll have to try to figure out where people
might have unloaded their trash. Sometimes everyone in a
community had one chosen spot at which to leave refuse.
These dumps were frequently located in gulches or ravines,
and often downhill from a settlement . . . perhaps to
prevent seepage into wells, or maybe because it's easier to
haul trash down than up.
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Of course, simply finding an abandoned garbage
heap isn't the whole story. You must then
determine—before devoting too much time to
digging—whether it's old enough to hold potential
value. The clues that most often signal a possible bonanza
include sun-purpled bits of glass, blue pieces of early
Mason jars, and the white porcelain liners from
old-fashioned zinc canning lids. Screwtop bottles will
indicate that the dump is anywhere from 30 years to mere
days old ... cork-stoppered purple flasks, on the
other hand, are an excellent sign that the trashpile is at
least 70 years old.
However, since recent rubbish may be covering up old
goodies, you will need to scratch around a bit and
make a test hole or two. But once you're convinced that
you've hit pay dirt, it's generally best to start
excavating at one end and methodically turn over the entire
area, shovelful by shovelful. (By simply potholing hither
and yon, you'll likely miss more bottles than you uncover.)
Dig gently, though, or your tool can smash what might have
been a valuable find!
BACKYARD DIGS
Not everyone will be fortunate enough to discover a major
untouched dumping ground, naturally, but virtually any old
homesite will likely have a long-covered toilet pit or two.
Outhouse locations can make easy and rewarding digs . . .
and they aren't even unpleasant to investigate after enough
years of bacterial action have worked their cleansing
wonders.
Privies were—as you'd imagine—usually located
handy to the house, and the sites were moved over at
frequent intervals, so you might well find half a dozen
searchable places side by side . . . earmarked by nothing
more than a slight depression or perhaps a few rotten
boards.
Now the same evidence may also mark a long-gone
shed or springhouse. You can, however, usually determine
whether the signs do indeed point to an outhouse location
by using a probe ... a ten-foot-long metal rod with a
T-shaped pounder that's much like a metal fencepost setter.
Ordinary unexcavated ground will probably be hard all the
way down, and may contain rocks, but the probe
will penetrate soft outhouse dirt like an icepick going
through warm butter.
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