Metal Polishing Made Easy
(Page 2 of 2)
March/April 1982
By the Mother Earth News editors
AWAY WITH TARNISH
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For best results, hold the to-be-polished item against the wheel and move it slowly, shining a small area at a time. The circular movement will heat both the compound and the metal . . . and, as the tarnish combines with the cleaner, it will form a gummy black substance. Most of this will be carried away on the wheel, but when the buildup is heavy, you'll probably want to wipe off the gum from time to time with a soft cloth. (On tough jobs it may also be necessary to apply additional compound to the wheel during the polishing process.)
Once the tarnish has been completely removed, turn off the drill and fit it with a buffing bonnet (or a clean polishing wheel). Then turn on the tool, reset the trigger lock, and buff the metal object thoroughly.
Finally, wash the newly shined piece in warm, soapy water to remove the last traces of the polishing compound . . . rinse it carefully . . . and use a soft, absorbent cloth to dry it quickly and completely. Avoid any unnecessary handling of the polished surfaces afterward, since the oils, acids, and moisture from your hands will accelerate the retarnishing process.
You can slow down the inevitable future oxidation by simply applying a thin coat of clear paste wax to the metal . . . letting it dry for several minutes . . . then buffing it again with a clean bonnet or wheel. Don't, however, wax objects that will be heated or will contact food, such as copper-bottomed pots and silver serving utensils.
Of course, even if you do take precautions, tarnish will build up again eventually . . . but now that you know my secret, putting a shine on the metal in your life should never be a wearisome chore again!
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