$10 BUG-BUSTER
(Page 3 of 3)
July/August 1981
By the Mother Earth News editors
To complete your bug-buster, merely center the lid-mounting collar on the upper disk, drill four evenly spaced 5/32" holes through the wooden ring and the platform beneath, then—using the collar bores as guides—make four equivalent holes in the perimeter of the lid itself (the solid 5-1/2" disk) . . . as well as a single larger bore, offset from the center, to accommodate the power cord. Cut your 4" drainpipe to a length of 2-3/4" (or whatever's needed to cover the transformer you're using), and sand its outer surface to remove any lettering. Finish wiring the input line through the light socket and to the transformer as shown in our diagram, coat the terminals with silicone sealant, then mount the protective lid to the top of the wooden framework (with the plastic sleeve between), using No. 5 X 4-1/2" machine bolts. Wrap it up by inserting a 100-watt light bulb in the socket and fastening a screw eye to the middle of the lid to serve as a mount.
RELATED CONTENT
Finally, hang your handiwork under the soffit of your house, or from a pole on the patio (position it high enough so that curious children won't be able to touch it), and plug it in.(Its 182-volt-DC, 1/10-amp jolt will zap bugs and—though it wouldn't be classified as a particularly dangerous current—should be treated with respect. For safety's sake, you could easily tack a band of vinyl-covered metal, or plastic, 1/2"-grid screening or gutter guard to the edges of the large wooden disks . . . and be absolutely certain to refrain from using the apparatus in damp weather, or handling it—at any time—with the power on.Also, the device is most effective if you unplug it occasionally and brush any expired insects from its wire grid.)
Admittedly, our homebuilt exterminator isn't quite as effective as the more costly commercial units, but it does a darn good job for the price . . . allowing you to spend almost insect-free evenings outdoors.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 | 3 |
