Chain Saw Horse Sense!

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OK, let's start. Your machine is running at high speed (never let the engine operate at a low RPM at the start of—or during—a cut) . . . you are standing in a comfortable position, firmly balanced . . . and the log is lying in front of you or, better yet, is safely supported on a sawbuck. Now, lower the saw so that the wood meets the chain well back on the straight portion of the bar (the area closest to the engine). Normally, at this stage, cutting is done from the top of the log, letting the weight of the saw and the pull of the chain carry the blade down and through the wood. (If your chain is sharp, you won't need to push or use a "sawing" motion . . . the engine will do the work.)

When you near the end of your cut, be ready to lift the saw up and out of the log, while maintaining your balance. And, if your future firewood is lying on the ground, be sure to stop before you cut into the dirt and rocks, since contact with such materials will quickly dull the chain (and could lead to an accident!). It's best to roll the log (using a handy limb or a peavey) before finishing your cut.

AVOID PROBLEMS

Often a log will be positioned in such a way that—as the saw works down from the top—it will "pinch" the blade (and a tool stuck in this manner can be very difficult to remove). In order to avoid the problem, keep an eye on the cut as you work. If the opening begins to close, remove the blade and then (assuming, of course, that the log is supported in some way) finish the job by cutting up, using the top of the blade, from beneath the log. (If the saw does get trapped, turn it off immediately. Then have a friend help you pry the timber in whatever direction is necessary to open the cut and free the bar. Should that prove impossible, you might have to use another saw and shorten the log enough to allow the pinched cut to be forced open.)

NEVER FORGET ABOUT KICKBACK

One of the biggest dangers facing the chain saw user is kickback. This occurs when the chain, as it speeds around the nose of the bar, hits something solid and forces the saw back toward the operator. Always be alert for this possibility . . . keep the nose of the chain clear . . . and make your cuts back on the straight portion of the bar, closest to the engine, whenever you can. Also, work with your left elbow locked (or your left arm held as straight as possible) to block or absorb any kickback that might occur ... and keep the saw blade slightly to your right while cutting, so that the blade—if it does kick back—will miss your body.

Accidents do happen, so be careful and don't overextend yourself . . . getting worn out is one of the worst things you can do. Set your own pace and take a break—or quit—when you're tired.

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