Barnacle Parp's CHAIN SAW GUIDE
(Page 7 of 8)
November/December 1978
By the Mother Earth News editors
Hold the saw firmly in both hands, with the engine at idle. Bring the cutting attachment up above the log, with the nose of the bar pointing up slightly. Bring the body of the saw down slowly, still at idle, so that the bumper spike engages the wood. The chain should still not be touching the wood.
RELATED CONTENT
Bucking, felling a small and large tree....
Thermal storage capacity and inexpensive operation are characteristic of this oil heat storage furn...
Use spare and salvaged parts to become independent of fossil fuels by building a steam-powered truc...
TASTY TIPS FOR COOKING ON YOUR WOODBURNING STOVE December/January 1991 WOODSTOVE SPECIAL By Fred an...
If you have a manual oiler or manual override, pump it like crazy. At the same time, squeeze the trigger as you pivot the saw on the bumper spike. The engine and the chain must be going full speed when the chain touches the wood. The idea is to coordinate the downward pivot of the cutting attachment with the increasing engine speed so that the machine is running at full speed and power a split second before it hits the wood. That will save the saw from racing "in the air," and will also save you from having the saw pulled violently forward by a slow-running chain.
Let the saw do most of the work. Don't force it into the wood. Pivot the machine on the bumper spike. Keep your left elbow straight but hold the saw firmly, while standing close to it. Use plenty of oil. Pump the oiler every ten seconds to break in a new saw. Keep your body just slightly to the left of the plane of chain rotation. Don't be afraid. You are in charge.
As the saw cuts down into the log, the nose of the bar will drop. When the cutting attachment has pivoted below horizontal, so that the nose is lower than the tail of the bar, move the saw so that the bumper spike grips lower on the log. About now you should be a third of the way through the log. Bring the bar up out of the cut very carefully, gradually decreasing engine speed as the bar comes out of the cut.
If you accepted these suggestions verbatim, your cutting attachment is not stuck in the log. If your bar is pinched because you cut too far, use a wedge or crowbar to widen the kerf enough to remove the saw. Don't use the bar to pry the saw loose, and don't try to cut your way out. Turn your saw off first so the moving chain isn't damaged by the wedge or bar.
If you didn't pinch the bar, your saw is still running at an idle and is removed from the cut. Without touching it, glance at the chain. If it isn't sagging, repeat the cutting procedure as above at another place on the log. Do this two or three times to heat the saw and the cutting attachment thoroughly. Be sure to use plenty of oil. If you have a manual oiler, pump it every 10 seconds while the chain is cutting. If you have an automatic oiler with a manual override, pump it every 20 seconds. Be sure to keep the saw going full speed. If you cut at less than full speed, the clutch will wear out incredibly quickly. When you remove the saw from the last cut, turn it off.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 | 7 |
8 |
Next >>