THE HOMESTEAD CISTERN
(Page 3 of 5)
A very important thing to keep in mind about your cistern's
water collector is that the collection surface (the house
or barn roof, in most cases) must be free of any
material(s) which might pollute the water it catches. (A
painted surface isn't suitable, since chips of the
protective coating will inevitably wash down into the
storage tank.)
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To aid in keeping their collected water clean, most cistern
owners install a "shut-off" (or short length of movable
pipe) in their systems' downspouts. Then, during the first
few minutes of a rain—when all the soot, bird
droppings, etc., that have accumulated on the roof's
surface begin to wash away—the runoff can be diverted
away from the cistern. (This tainted water can be shunted
to the garden or used in any way you'd use "gray water".)
Shortly afterwards—when it has rained a few minutes
and the water flowing through the downspout appears clear
and clean—the shut-off can be switched back to direct
the remaining portion of the shower or storm into the
cistern.
The filter mentioned above is usually nothing more than a
concrete enclosure (see diagram) that's divided into two
sections by a partition reaching two-thirds of the way to
the chamber's top. One of the two sections is left empty,
while the other is layered full of filtering material(s) .
. . usually gravel, fine sand, and/or activated charcoal.
The idea is that as water flows from the downspout to the
first (i.e., empty) section of the "filter box", bits of
leaves, dirt, etc., will settle out . . . then—as the
collected liquid spills over the partition and begins to
percolate down through the layers of filtering
material—smaller impurities also will be removed. A
screen prevents any remaining debris from flowing into the
supply line that connects the filter box with the cistern.
The cistern itself should be made of concrete, stone, or
some other non-corroding, non-contaminating material (wood
and metal are not recommended). In addition, the
storage tank must be [1] watertight, [2] effectively sealed
against outside contamination, and [3] fitted with some
type of overflow opening. For optimal protection against
contamination, the cistern's hatch door should fit tightly,
the overflow should be screened to prevent small animals
from entering, and care should be taken to locate
outhouses, septic tanks, cattle run-off areas, etc., at
least 100 feet away (preferably downhill ) from
the tank. (Note: Your cistern most definitely should
have a hatch door on its top, since the vessel's floor
will need to be cleaned every couple of years or
so.)
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