I MAKE BIG PROFITS BUYING AND SELLING USED FURNITURE

(Page 8 of 8)

January/February 1978
 
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[1] A couple of paint brushes.

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[2] Light-bodied furniture stripper.

[3] No. 2 steel wool and cotton rags.

[4] Small tools (toothpicks, nail files, etc.) for working the paint out of deep crevices in the wood.

[5] Furniture stain (optional).

[6] Varnish, wax, boiled linseed oil, or tung oil (as desired).

[7] A well-ventilated working area.

Follow the manufacturer's direc tions when you work with the stripper. Try to avoid breathing the fumes, and whatever you do, don't smoke or light a match ... most light-bodied finish removers are exceedingly flammable.

After you've removed the old finish from the chest, chair, or whatever, it's time to put on a new preservative. I prefer boiled linseed oil, since it [1] can be applied easily with a soft cloth, [2] keeps wood from drying out, and [3] brings out the true beauty of the grain. (Also, linseed oil has a non-toxic and-in my opinion — pleasing odor.) The oil's only drawback is that it takes a long time to dry ... two or three days, depending on temperature and humidity. Apply two to three coats for a nice, uniform finish, and allow the object to dry completely between coats.

After you've stripped and ref inished a couple of pieces of furniture, you'll have gotten the hang of the operation ... and you'll be well on your way to earning higher profits in the used furniture biz. —KG .

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