Wooden Silo Salvage: An Overlooked Rural Resource

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Before you offer—or agree to—a lump sum, test several staves for solidity with a hunting knife. Exterior appearance can be deceptive and dry rot may lurk within. Also notice the state of the roof—intact? missing? badly damaged?-since vertical tongue-and-groove boards will deteriorate rapidly when exposed to rain. And be sure to find out whether the walls are nailed together. I once took down a silo which was toe nailed with 4-inch spikes, and the labor involved almost offset the fact that I was getting the wood for free. If you have a choice, avoid any such undertaking.

The final price you and the owner arrive at will vary with the seller's appreciation for the versatility of the wood. The figure might range from $25 to $200, with $50 to $100 about average.

I've talked with several old-timers about taking down silos, and have used their techniques on six different occasions with excellent results and very little breakage. Now I'd like to pass on what I've learned in the hope that other homesteaders will tap this source of low-cost lumber.

If you work with a partner-a good plan-the pair of you will need the following tools:

2 electrician's belts (handy to hold tools when you're on a ladder or otherwise off the ground)
2 safety belts
2 hard hats
28-foot ladder
2 small wrecking bars
2 framing hammers
Liquid Wrench
12-inch crescent wrench
Hacksaw Oxyacetylene torch
1/2" X 50' cable with 2 heavy-duty hooks
Flatbed or pickup truck (a 4-wheel-drive pickup is ideal)

Once you're properly equipped, you'll be ready to begin: First of all, a wooden silo is usually attached to a barn by 2 X 4's and 1-inch boards which have to be loosened with a small wrecking bar and/or heavy framing hammer. It's generally easiest to do this from within, by ascending the steps of the silo door and working from the top down. On your first trip up, fasten one end of the 1/2" X 50' cable firmly to the top hoop . . . and while you're at it, remove the doors as you descend. You'll probably have to reach any guy wires that may be fastened to the barn by climbing a ladder to the point where they're attached (usually by turnbuckles). Also check for lightning rod ground cables affixed to the main building.

By this time the silo shaft framework should be free of the barn, and you can turn your attention to relaxing the grip of the metal hoops. These are usually held by 1- to 1-1/4-inch nuts. Start from the top, apply Liquid Wrench to the rusted fastenings, and loosen them until just the ends of the threads are holding. Or entirely remove all hoops except those at the top and bottom, and loosen the remaining pair at least 1 inch.

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