How To Build Your Own Forge

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Once you've got a good solid framework together, close in the four sides with boards, plywood, or whatever is available. The only absolute requirement is that the covering be strong enough to hold large amounts of dirt, rock, and concrete.

A hole—large enough to admit the air pipe—must then be cut in the center of each end of the forge, about 8 inches from its top. Insert the tube so that a length of about 6 inches extends from either end of the frame, and fill the box to the level of the pipe with earth, stone, brick, or mud.

Next, pierce the upper surface of the pipe so that air blown through it can reach the coals in the forge. You'll need to drill 20 to 25 holes (a quarter-inch bit works fine) in a roughly circular pattern near the center of this air inlet. From here on out, the air holes will be referred to as the tweer (also spelled "tuyere" and "twyer—MOTHER.).

You're almost ready—at this point—to fill the frame with concrete . . . but before you do, find some scrap lumber and construct a box about a foot square, open at the top and bottom. Place this around the tweer to prevent the concrete from covering the air holes and the site of the firebox. Then pile in the "mud" and smooth the upper surface.

When the concrete has set almost completely, remove the wooden guard. There should be a neat square hole—the firebox—in the top of the forge. Mix some thick concrete and shape the sides of this opening to slope inward from the upper edge toward the tweer (so that the fuel will continually slide down over the air blast when the forge is in operation).

AIR SUPPLY

OK. Now you'll need some kind of a device to force air through the pipe to the tweer . . . and any one of three I have in mind will fill the bill. The first possibility—which is the least to my liking—is an electric blower from an old vacuum cleaner, car heater, or whatever. Such a mechanism should, whenever possible, be coupled to a rheostat with which the motor speed can be varied, since control of the air blast is very important in forge welding and the heating of small items or tool steel.

A better choice is a hand-cranked blower, an efficient machine which is easily handled and moved. And best of all is the bellows . . . which allows the best regulation of airflow, conserves fuel, and heats metal faster than any other air supply I know of.

Any of the above may turn up in junkyards (put me in a good junkyard and I'm in seventh heaven), antique shops, or f lea markets . . . or you may find one of the air movers lying around on an old farm. With a little practice and a good eye, in fact, you can spot all sorts of tools while you're just cruising down the road. I can spy an anvil or a blower 'bout eleven miles off.

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