House Painting

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Once you've painted a few houses you'll have a feel for the most important part of preparing an estimate: figuring how long the work will take. Remember to allow for the following hassles:

Unboxed eaves (these will slow up even the most experienced painter).
Dormers that have eaves and siding.
French windows, with their many panes.
Patios.
Awnings which must be removed.
Necessary minor repairs.
Small leaks. If you spot one of these, recommend caulking over the defective seam. The suggestion can save the customer
more expensive mending in the future, and shows that you're concerned.
Bad surface. If the house's old paint is peeling off, check with the owner and plan time and materials for scraping and spot
priming (or a complete primer coat).

I estimate a job one side at a time: two man-hours for the eaves, two and a half for the peak, two for the windows, four for the space above, below and between the windows.

An estimate without a firm price is satisfactory to some homeowners. If you're asked for a set figure, be wise, reckon in all the problem areas and leave yourself enough time to cover any hang-ups.

Some customers want a contract price, a requirement which brings you into competition with other painters. Only you can set your rate because only you know how valuable your time is and how well you estimate. The time/dollar ratio you arrive at will determine your dollar-per-hour figure. If you feel insecure about such a formula, however, call a painter for an estimate and ask for his hourly charge.

MATERIALS

You should come to an agreement with your potential customer about what is included in the job and who is going to supply the materials. You can obtain the paint and either have it charged directly to the homeowner or added to your estimated bill. Either way, always buy first-grade, high-quality products. Good paint can make you look good, so don't cut corners here. Sometimes, though, the customer has his own ideas about what brands are best. Even though it's you that has to use the stuff, be tolerant.

Here's a checklist of other items you'll need, and some comments on choice of materials:

[1] Brushes . . . perhaps second in importance only to the paint itself. The best tool gives the best results (and lasts an extra painting season, too). I like a 2-1/2-inch-wide nylon brush with a round handle. This size can cover narrow siding and—due to its length—spread to reach a wide swath. Larger widths get heavy as the day goes on.

Nylon holds its shape and cleans up well . . . but to keep any good brush in top condition requires care. Some painters prefer to suspend—not stand—their brushes in thinner and linseed oil overnight and shake them out in the morning. Others wash them in oleum immediately after use. In either case, make sure the tool's bristles are well cleansed to prevent hardening.

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