How We Found a Live-Aboard Boat in B.C.

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Check the Sechelt Peninsula too, further south: slim pickings, but there are boats to be found now and again. Try to get to Egmont, Pender Harbor and nearby Madiera Park, Sechelt (Porpoise Bay Wharf), and Gibsons (Landing).

Port Mellon, on Howe Sound further south, is a gross, polluted place, and boats are unlikely there . . . but, if you have the time . . .

CHOOSING A BOAT

This is a matter on which a lot of advice is going to be useless. Boat choice is affected by so many personal attitudes and ideas that old boat people are correct in saying, "Something happens when you see the craft that's right for you." Some advice, however, is useful.

THE HULL: When inspecting a wooden-hulled craft, carry an icepick and a pocketknife and probe everywhere, inside and out, for rot or soft spots. This is especially important in the ribs and planking. Inspect every rib you can and pay special attention to the sensitive areas-particularly the forward and aft extremes, at the waterline—where trouble shows up first.

Be as patient and thorough as you can. If—for instance—you overlook some bad ribs, repair will entail buying replacement wood and steaming that wood to shape. Such steaming requires both specialized know-how and equipment.

Find out if a boat is taking water (if she's in the water). If the craft is in drydock, find out why and for how long. Generally, the longer the hull has dried or been exposed to air, the more it'll shrink and its seams open. On the other hand, when a vessel is left too long in the water its toxic copper paint (universally used to coat hulls) wears out, allowing infestation by toredoes and ether wood parasites. This leaves the boat liable to expensive repairs.

The caulking between a vessel's planking should be in good shape to prevent leakage that could waterlog the wood. The stuffing around the shaft where it enters on every powerboat should also be checked for leaks.

The older cedar hulls, while extremely strong, are usually full of toredo worms. Look closely for worm holes. Dry rot and worms are sometimes difficult to spot and a final hull inspection should be made by a real boat expert (or by you only after you've picked the brain of such an authority).

If your initial "once over" of a craft that's afloat tempts you to buy it on the spot . . . ask the owner to have the vessel drydocked or "put on the ways". You want a good look at the outside of the hull before you do anything rash. Any owner with nothing to hide will agree to such action . . . or you might look at the bottom of the boat with diving gear.

Then again, for about $100, B.C. Marine Engineers will completely check a vessel for soundness (with electronics, et al.). It could well be a good investment.

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