My $25.00 Log Cabin
(Page 2 of 3)
May/June 1970
By Lawrence Goldsmith
If stones are not available you can use poured concrete or blocks. However, a wooden post foundation is more asthetic than concrete. Strip the bark and treat your cut posts with concrete or another wood preserver. Old crankcase oil is said to work also. Place a flat stone in a 3 foot deep pit; place your post and fill around the post with small rocks and subsoil.
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My next step was to lay 3 sturdy 14 foot logs for floor sills over the foundation stones and to lay floor joists, 18 inches apart, cross-wise over these. I was lucky enough to find scrap 4 x 4's to use for floor joists but old railroad ties, straight logs, or 2 x 4's could also be used. Your floor may best be nailed onto the joists after the roof is completed so that it won't be ruined by rain. I used plywood but almost any type of wood can be used for flooring.
I then determined the placing of door and window framing. Since I was able to locate scrap doors and windows easily, I didn't restrict myself on their use. A layer of plastic tacked on protects against heat loss and the extra light and airiness make up for this slight deficit. Another advantage of many windows is that you do not have to have as many long spans of logs. To save money, locate used windows and doors and build your framing accordingly. The simplest window to install is one on hinges.
You are now ready to begin the walls. Each log set down should be notched on the under side and set on top of the log going the other way. You'll only need nails to steady logs to door and window framing but not in corners. The notches lock the logs in place. If notches were made on the top side of the logs, water may collect and of the ten or twenty other methods of fitting corners, I found this easiest or soundest. Do not worry about spaces between logs; they will be filled latter.
Throughout this construction don't forget the level and plumb line. I tried to sight my floor by eye and have a slight slant.
There are so many types of roof possible that I am sketching both mine and another that may be better. Plan on a 1/4 pitch for snow safety. I have about a 1/6 pitch, but Maryland snows are not too heavy. I built the walls 8 inches higher than the windows and door in the front 2/3 of the cabin and then proceeded to set the front roof beams up on blocks or posts to create the pitch. Two methods of doing this, are illustrated. You can have a one slant or two slant roof and you can fill spaces left by this method with cut and fitted logs or cheat (like I did) and use scrap lumber.
I used scrap doors (some with glass for skylights) for my roof which I placed on 14 foot log beams spaced 2 feet apart. Over the doors I used 3 rolls of tarpaper roof ing and caulked all seams. The local hardware store sold these supplies and explained their application. Exterior plywood, shingles, scrap wood and hand-made shakes can also be considered for roofing.
