Alcohol Fuel Powers this Experimental Truck
(Page 3 of 8)
September/October 1979
The Mother Earth News editors
Some Garbs—such as the unit on MOTHER's truck—will need additional idle-circuit enlargement if they're to run properly. To accomplish this easy chore, remove the idle-mixture screw and drill into its orifice with a bit that's slightly larger than the original hole. Be cautioned, however, that this alteration doesn't apply to all types of carburetors . . . it would be best to install the carburetor—with only the main jet enlarged—on the engine and try it out before drilling the fixed idle circuit.
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The final change that MOTHER's mechanics made in the carburetor was to shim the idle-mixture screw spring with a couple of small lock washers. This allowed the threaded metering device to be drawn out farther than normal without danger of its vibrating loose. (They also tightened the idle-speed screw by about 1-1/2 turns.)
With all the modifications completed . . . replace the main jet in the carb, install the float, and reassemble the carburetor. Position a fresh gasket on the manifold (make sure both metal surfaces are clean) and bolt the carb assembly in place.
DUAL-FUEL PLUMBING
At this time, if you choose, you might want to rig up a dual-fuel system. This will allow the use of either alcohol or gasoline (with a bit of tinkering involved in the switch-over process) and entails only the installation of a second fuel tank and some additional plumbing.
Start by looking your vehicle over and deciding where you want to put your extra tank. On MOTHER's pickup, the container fits perfectly between the cab and the rear fender . . . but—on a passenger car—it might have to be mounted next to the regular gasoline tank (and away from the hot-when-running exhaust system, of course). The vessel itself can be anything from a recycled Freon tank to a fuel tank from a small car . . . but whatever you choose, be certain that the container is leak-free and mounted safely.
Once your car is equipped with a dualfuel capability (our hook-up is illustrated in the accompanying diagram), you can begin to attune the vehicle to its new "feed". Reattach the throttle and choke linkages (and any other hoses you might have removed in the conversion process), then drain your petrol tank and fill it with alcohol (you can also—at this time—fill the auxiliary container with gasoline). Shut off the valve that supplies the new secondary fuel pump, open the alcohol control . . . and start'er up!
It'll take a few seconds to fill the empty float bowl, but the engine should soon start and run at a fast idle. Slowly decrease the RPM's of the engine by backing off on the idle-speed screw until the engine wants to stall. At the same time, it may be necessary to gradually adjust the idle-mixture screw—by 1/4-turn increment—still the engine's "roughness" evens out. Eventually, the vehicle should idle nicely . . . (though it nay run slightly faster than usual).
Now replace the air cleaner housing and take your car for a drive . . . it should perform normally. After driving about 10 miles at cruising speeds, it's important that you remove the spark plugs and check their electrodes. If the tips are covered with a white coating, the combustion chamber is getting too hot . . . dismantle the carburetor again and enlarge the jet by one drill size (remember . . . the lower the number, the larger the bit). Test the car again and recheck the plugs . . . they should be covered with an even, light tan coating.
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