I like to see Handy clean and slick with a healthy layer of fat; yet still lean and muscular. That's when he looks and acts best: bright-eyed, shiny-coated, strong and untiring . . . all set to do the four miles into the village, rest while I run errands and then pace home.

A note here: Never trot your horse up or down a hill. The weight of the rig pushing or pulling against him places unnatural strain on his leg muscles. Just have him walk.

Another must: Always blanket your animal when you reach your destination, even in summer. And when you stop, don't allow him to eat grain or drink unlimited amounts of liquid. Cool him off first. On an exceptionally hot day I let Handy have several swallows of water after exercise, but that's all until he cools down. Many owners have learned these lessons only after unintentionally harming their horses.

A carriage horse also needs special attention given to his shoeing. You'll have to find a good blacksmith who can do the job and trim hoofs and recognize foot problems before they harm an animal's legs. In addition, a smith or farrier can correct contracting heels . . . a condition that tends to occur in driving horses and will eventually pinch the frog (the elastic pad in the middle of the sole). Remember that, in general, a hoof should be as wide as it is long . . . and make sure your animal's feet stay that way.

Nothing is prettier than a harness horse in good health clipping down the road. You'll know your conscientious care was worth the time and effort when you observe people stopping their cars or running to their windows just to watch your turnout go by.

HARNESS

While Handy was on his conditioning regime-regular feedings, daily workouts under saddle and vigorous brushing—I had time to arrange for his harness. Horse gear can be found both new or used . . . the catch is to track down good quality.

First I checked on the offerings of local Western supply stores and felt no desire to own what was sold, at fancy prices, as leather (but looked and felt like cardboard). Back I went to a trusty Amish harnessmaker, whose leather was the real thing. For $65.00, plus $18.00 for a new collar—half the store price—I bought a beautiful-smelling light driving harness (although it doesn't feel very light to me!).

I'd never harnessed a horse before, and that jumble of lines, straps and buckles hanging from a hook in the ceiling was a puzzle to me. The maker showed me what went where . . . but when I got the maze home and tried to put it on Handy, I just couldn't get it right. An old-timer from the village finally solved the problem for me by dismantling the tangle into three sections and explaining the purpose of each. After that it was very easy.

When you outfit your driving horse, by the way, it's important that you get a collar of the right size. It should sit snugly back on the animal's shoulders, with a handbreadth of space at the bottom inside to allow ample room for the windpipe. If the horse loses weight, check to be sure the collar doesn't rock and cause rawness and bruising. If he gains—as Handy did—you'll need a larger neckpiece or the windpipe will be pinched and the animal won't be able to breathe deeply. The Amish say that the collar measurement usually varies seasonally, and keep a winter size and a summer size for each working horse.