Horse and Buggy Transportation — Real Alternative Transportation!
(Page 2 of 6)
November/December 1974
By Shaun Ann Eddy
If there's a harness track in your area, a visit at the end of the racing season should provide the opportunity to buy a standardbred. Otherwise, check with local horse dealers, auctioneers and veterinarians.
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My driving horse is a five-year-old standard bred/American saddle-bred named Handy . . . on sale because he had cut a hoof and wasn't earning his keep. He was dull-coated, extremely thin and in need of worming: a very sad-looking creature, to say the least. Still—after I'd examined the animal and had a knowledgeable dealer check him over—I knew the potential was there and that his comeback was only a matter of rest and routine loving care. I offered $100 for Handy, and he was mine. Sure enough, within a few months he was a completely different horse, full of spirit and class. His Amish-taught driving manners were impeccable, and he wasn't alarmed by motor vehicles or the congestion of village traffic.
That's an important point: A driving horse must be road-safe . . . that is, fit to use in traffic. Unless you're capable of road-training the animal yourself, buy one that already knows his business. By all means, insist on a test drive (just as if you were purchasing a car). Observe your prospective purchase's general attitude toward his job . . . and, if possible, toward other horses, too.
The buggy horse should stand quietly to be harnessed and shouldn't balk while he's being hitched to a vehicle. When driven, he must stay on the proper side of the road and pull without swerving, lunging or slacking. Also see that he listens and responds to commands, particularly when told to back up a rig. If your prospective purchase has even a single bad habit in traffic, forget him. Too many situations arise in driving that require a sure knowledge of what your horse will and won't do.
Just one example: When I first owned Handy he had a problem with bridges. He just didn't like to enter them. I had to get out of the carriage and gently coax him onto the overpass. It wasn't a major fault and he's overcome it now, but it could have been serious.
You must also expect to deal with rustling newspapers, garbage along the road, canvas flapping on a passing truck, honking cars and barking dogs. If need be, improvise situations at home to acquaint your horse with conditions he may encounter in his work. Above all, never underestimate your animal's curiosity and his capacity for fear. He'll always be quick to assess and respond to something new . . . and good training will minimize the chance of an accident.
THE CARE OF A DRIVING HORSE
Give your new-found animal a chance to become conditioned so that he can pull your vehicle effectively. General good health resulting from proper food and shelter is a must.
What you feed your horse, and how much, depends on his weight and use (and also, of course, on your budget). My gelding never could handle prepared rations, which are expensive anyway. So, when I'm driving Handy regularly, I give him good hay, pasture, lots of water and about six quarts of oats daily, with a liquid honey protein supplement. I cut the amount of feed in half when he's not working. Individuals differ, though, so ask your vet what your horse should eat and take it from there.
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