STALKING THE USED PICKUP
(Page 2 of 11)
The best compromise is often what is known as the "truck-six". This is the engine
designed especially for 3/4-ton and larger trucks. As built
by most major companies, the powerplant ranges in the
neighborhood of 300-cubic inches, has enough guts to walk
right through the toughest jobs and is built to last. These
durable mills almost always have five main bearings instead
of the three considered sufficient on most automobile
engines . . . which reduces wear on the crankshaft, rod
bearings and main bearings themselves.
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Obviously, a truck-six engine will probably be your first choice
but—V-8, six or truck-six—every powerplant must
be judged on its own merits. No need to jump in any
direction yet. Might as well check out a few of the finer
points while you have your head under that hood.
Look at the position of the distributor and the nut underneath
which must be loosened to adjust the engine's timing. Is
the nut easily accessible or will it take an extension
elbow to reach it? Is the distributor itself in such a
position that you can time the ignition alone . . . or will
you need another person to move the blamed thing while you
operate a timing light?
If you can see the fuel pump, can you get a wrench on it?
Open, box-end or socket? Using an open or box on a long
bolt can be a royal pain, especially when you're running
short of daylight or a storm is approaching.
What about the water pump? Will you have to remove the radiator to change
it? And the bolts that hold it in place . . . ask yourself
the same questions about them that you asked about the
bolts on the fuel pump.
By now you're getting the general idea. If you buy this truck, you're the one who's going to
have to work on it, love it and take care of it. That
knowledge kind of gives you a more critical eye as you look
the vehicle over, doesn't it?
OK. Now check the maintenance
potential of the seldom-considered bottom side of
the truck. Crawl underneath and take a look at the bolts
which hold the crankcase on. Can you get to all of them
with a tool of some kind? A careful look will tell you a
lot about whether or not you want to own this pickup. The
crucial question is: can you drop the oil pan without
pulling the engine? On a number of models you can't
and, in that case, you probably won't want the truck.
In the same manner, if the drive shaft from the engine to the
real wheels is enclosed above the frame, you'll have
trouble dropping it to pull the transmission or to replace
the universal joints. The situation is roughly equivalent
to that of a dentist telling you that your teeth are all
right . . . but your gums have got to come out.
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