How to Build a Woodshed
(Page 6 of 8)
August/September 1995
By John Vivian
You can indulge yourself and secure the wedges in place by drilling 1/8-inch holes at an angle through one side of each peg … aiming to go through the wedges. Then hammer in lengths of 1/8-inch wood dowel (whittled to a point at the business end like a nail) to act as pins.
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Use a straight-edge to mark and hand saw to cut identical pairs of 45 degrees, vertical sided/level-topped bird-mouth notches front and back into the undersides of all the “upside-down-V” rafters arranged atop the lintels so the rear of each rafter extends three or four inches beyond the rear lintel (see Image Gallery).
For looks alone, you will want angle braces supporting the rafters at each end. These look best if they make an equilateral triangle. With notched rafters set temporarily on ends, locate and mark end braces for lap joints.
Measure and mark lap-cuts to fasten the mid-beams — one vertical brace between rafter and floor at the sides and two along the back if plank siding is to run horizontally … one horizontal along the back and each side if siding is to go on vertically (which is easier and drains rain better, so is longer-lasting). If you want to finish the siding job with clapboards or shingles, measure for horizontal braces. You can sheathe over them with vertical boards or plywood to support the finish siding.
Frame Assembly
Take lintel frames down, lay flat, and cut out all lap joints in frame and braces. Then, put the lintels back up to stay. Fasten vertical corner posts to base beams with the upright pegs mentioned above, or “toe-nailed” with spikes through (pilot holes in) uprights and into base beams at an angle.
Attach all brace timbers with 1-inch pegs or a triangle of 3-inch galvanized nails in each lap joint.
A roof can blow off, and I’d not trust pegs or even nails. Fasten rafters to lintels with two long drywall-type screw or with lagscrews (big coarse-threaded fasteners with square or hex heads so you need to use a ratchet wrench on them).
Siding
Attach simple plank-siding with two galvanized siding nails through boards and into each underlying brace. Make nail lines straight between boards, level along frame timbers.
To attach clapboards or shingle siding to match your house, cover frame with sheet-goods or plank sheathing. Don't weatherproof with house wrap or builders paper. You want air to flow through to keep the cordwood dry. Nail on 6-inch-wide trim boards top and bottom and at both corners, following the pattern of the house. Then, working from the bottom up, fasten clapboards or shingles in level, even-edged rows. Overlap upper clapboards over lower by at least an inch. Overlap shingles half their length or more, and cover all seams between shingles —lay them out according to the house pattern. Unless you want nails bristling from the sides and back, fasten finish siding with staples and a thin bead of strong builders cement from a caulking gun. Siding boards should be cut to fit under the rafters at the back.
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