The Microhouse: A Small Home You Can Build
(Page 4 of 8)
April/May 1995
By Rev. Bill Kaysing
For interior finish, nothing can replace reliable old Sheetrock, compressed gypsum with a paper sheathing. It’s very cheap and it comes in large 4-by-8 sheets; so it would take hardly any time to make your microhouse interior clean, smooth, and livable. Sheetrock is fireproof, adds a layer of insulation, and lends itself to the addition of wallpaper, fabrics, and paint.
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There are lots of materials out there that can be adapted for microhouse use. Just keep your eyes open as you toddle about, and you'll be amazed at how much money you can save by being just a little creative.
Tools to Build Your Microhouse
The yard that sells you the lumber can do most of the sawing for you. Lumberyards often do this as a service, and even if there is a modest charge, you’ll be assured of accurate cuts and lots of your time and energy will be saved. This is especially true for large sheets of plywood that need to be shortened.
Here are some recommended tools for your microhouse project. I suggest you try a flea market first, as they often sell quality used tools at bargain prices. Better a good used hammer than a poor new one.
- Cross-cut handsaw
- Ripsaw
- Key-holesaw
- Claw hammer
- Level
- Plumb line
- Measuring tape
- One-quarter-inch chisel
- One-inch chisel
- Square
- Shovel
Note that you don’t need any power tools, eliminating much expense and hazard.
Microhouse Design
There’s no question that a shed roof microhouse is easier to build than one with a gable roof. There are no difficult cuts, no erection of a ridge pole, no need to notch rafters, and so forth, and that is why it’s the best model for the amateur builder. Here are the plans and everything else you need to know to proceed.
Shed Roof Microhouse Assembly Instruction
- Determine a suitable location with front to face south if this is an option.
- Place pier blocks and adjust using a garden hose. Attach one end to the master block. Fill the hose with water and adjust the block position by watching the water level.
- Place 4-inch-by-6-inch-by-14-foot skids on the 6 blocks and install F-24 hangers in 20 places (16 -inch centers) using 8d nails. Place and nail floor joists and cover with T and G plywood flooring using screw drive nails. Check for squareness.
- Fabricate front wall frame and nail F-24 hangers to the top. Erect and position with 16d nails. You may use a temporary support.
- Fabricate back and side frames affixing hangers to the former. Erect and nail securely with 16d nails. Level and check for squareness; then nail all frames together at the corners. Recheck for squareness.
- Install rafters into hangers and nail with 8d nails.
- Install plywood roof panels allowing a 6-inch overhang on the front. Use screw drive nails. Cut and install two of three panels on the rear wall and all the side and front sheathing.
- Pilot drill all the cutouts and connect the holes with pencil. Cut out all window and door openings. Now you can install that last rear panel.
- Install interior moldings, caulk, and install three fixed windows at the front. Install sliding windows and all exterior trim with 6d nails. Assemble and install door and door hardware. Seal exterior trim.
- Affix drip edge flashing and roofing. Use lap cement on 24-inch overlaps.
- Celebrate ... you have finished!
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