Replacement Windows

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Cut and nail on the horizontal headertrim board, notching as illustrated to accept ends of side trim. The header-trim board should extend beyond outer edges of sidetrim boards by an inch or so at each side. A 1/4 of jamb should reveal itself under the top board-just as along the side—trim boards.

Under the lip of the stool add a bottom-trim board as long as the window is wide, side-trim boards included.

If the window is deep, you may want to cut two flat molding strips to fit against each inner-side jamb to conceal edges of tension/balance strips and/or side edges of the sash. Cut length to make a snug fit from the top jamb down to the sill cap (it is good if you have to bow the board to install it). Boards should be width trimmed so their inner edges don't quite touch the sash and outer edges are parallel to the edge of the underlying jamb—not all the way out to the outer edge of the side trim. If an inner- trim board is needed at the top, cut it the same width as the side trim. Cut top ends of side trim and ends of top trim at 45° angles so they mate in a neat 90° corner.

Maintenance

Even insulated (non-E) glass may show some condensation or ice buildup along the lower edge where it meets the sash. Keep the interior sash dry as possible to keep water from flaking paint or keep mildew from growing on unpainted sash and stool caps. Restain or varnish natural sash every so often to continue repelling moisture. When weather is warm and air dry in the fall, scrape and paint a peeling, painted-wood window to minimize moisture damage, and check weather stripping and caulking periodically and treat the gaps.

A light touch of paraffin on the tension/balance strips once in a while will keep sashes from sticking. And, sorry to say, even with the most modern of windows, you'll still have to wash the lights. (Use a bucket of a good ammonia-based glass cleaner and sponge to wash, and a rubber-edged squeegee to remove water, and the work will go fast.)

"But I Like My Old Windows"

There are valid rea sons for restoring old windows instead of replacing them.

The classic look of small-pane windows fits an old house. Arched windows or the curved sash in a round bay may be irreplaceable. Call in a professional if you have colonial antique 8 over 12s or ornate Victorian stained glass to restore.

An old window can be made more efficient. A local millworks can install modern weather-strip in old sash. If you can't fine old-style wood storm win dows, they will build custom-wood storms for a reasonable price. Removing this insulating layer of glass in the spring and putting it back up in fall is a small price to pay to keep 100-year-old classic windows in service. And, if you close heavy draperies at night or install insulated fabric shades you may be able to keep the thermostat down low.

One of the merits of wood construction is its "fixablity." If wood does rot out, new wood can be shaped and fitted to rep lace it. Epoxy fillers can strengthen and solidify weathered wood, restoring it to a paintable surface. What might appear to be a hopeless window to a homeowner may be a doable challenge to an experienced restorer.

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