Replacement Windows

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Anderson introduced the first vinyl- clad windows 25 years ago with a promise (that has stood the test of time) that their Perma-Shield system wouldn't "rust, pit, corrode, chip, flake, peel or blister"—or ever need painting. Most other window manufacturers followed suit and today it is the high-quality all-wood window that is hard to find (and often, more expensive than clad units). Some makers prefer aluminum to vinyl cladding, but with either option, look for seams that are fusion-welded, gasketed, or upped to keep moisture out (lest it soak the wood so it swells or freezes and ruptures the claddingmost likely the year after the warranty expires).

Still, people like me who mourn when an honest wood-frame house is entombed under a shroud of aluminum siding prefer all-wood. Maintaining tradition is a good enough reason for many. Matching a natural log house or stained cedar clapboards, shakes or plywood siding is a better reason still. Our house has spruce-green trim that no beige or off-white cladding would match, and there's no need to pay for cladding if you plan to outrage its no-maintenance feature with paint. Just be ready to haul out the ladder and brushes periodically if you agree that "wood is good."

The Replacement Process

This job is not as daunting as you might think.

The first step in removing an old window is to pull off the flat exterior trim boards that surround it and that hold the old sash in place—first inside and then outside the house. Do everything you can to conserve the original inside trim boards—both the surround of trim that is flat against the wall, the stool cap, and the thin boards that cover the jambs around the inner surface of the window. Mark each piece so you know which window it fits. If you are retaining the original decor, you may be able to reuse all or most of the original trim. If you are changing decor—say, replacing painted woodwork with natural—even split or splintered originals can serve as patterns to make replacements.

Prying old trim off the small-headed finish nails that hold it minimizes damage to the boards and to the inside walls and exterior siding. Cut painted-in joints with a knife and use a wide and thin-bladed screwdriver to break trim boards away from the underlying window frame. When you've opened a crack you can use a pry bar or clawhammer, but go easy lest you dent the wood. Also, place a flat board between tool and fragile plaster or siding.

If you plan to reuse trim boards, first pry off the header. Insert prybar at the top where dents won't show. Side trim can then be worked off from the top down. Go gently, as old wood is brittle and cracks easily. Remove any nails that come off with the boards by cutting them off at board level with nippers or side-cutting pliers. The nail head is sure to splinter the painted face of the board if you try to hammer it through.

Window frames are generally secured to the house frame through the exterior trim. But you may find windows secured by nails put through the jambs into the surrounding studs. With trim removed inside and out you can usually get a metal-cutting blade through the wall to cut these. (A powerful reciprocating saw that cuts back and forth, or a supersaw—a heavy jigsaw that cuts up and down—is the renovator's tool of choice, as either can cut nails and reach into tight locations.)

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