COUNTRY SKILLS
(Page 8 of 10)
Doors and Window
RELATED CONTENT
Air and Sand Lines/Air Supply
January/February 1982
Issue # 73 - January/February 1982
See ...
The heat loss of any structure can be described by the relationship of these five factors; surface ...
Buying or building a small home is a great way to significantly reduce your energy use, and you don...
There are thousands upon thousands of abandoned farmhouses scattered throughout the U.S., at bargai...
I'm renting an old Finnish homestead near Nolalu, Ontario....
More energy can be lost through a few doors and windows
than through walls and roof combined. Small wonder; rated
at only T-0.9, a glass pane conducts and radiates energy
both ways, which is great during sunny winter days but
inefficient at night (and the reverse in summer). During
the `70s, when petroleum threatened to rise to $50/bbl (it
now sells for about $18), a number of
door/window-insulating ideas were developed—not all
of them practical. I remember one dual-pane window that
could be blown full of insulating styrofoam beads. Problem
was, getting them all out was nearly impossible, and little
white bits flecked the inner panes.
In modern energy-saving, dual-pane sashes; interpane spaces
are filled with argon or another inert gas, which, with its
heavy molecules, is less conductive than still air. A low-E
coating—a super-fine spray of reflective
metal—is applied to inner surfaces of panes. Much as
the metal grid in your microwave oven door lets light out
but keeps microwaves in, the low-E coating lets visible
light through but reflects infrared. Reflecting heat inward
in the north, and outward in the south, the low-E,
gas-filled sash has an R-4 rating.
The newest development is a window with low-E coatings on a
thin plastic film suspended in argon gas between dual
glazing and rated at R-8. New "hard" low-E coatings can
also be applied to storm windows. So, low-E main and storm
windows can combine to be almost as energy efficient as
your walls.
Energy codes require insulated doors and windows with air
and heat gaskets around casements in new construction and
major renovations. You can replace doors and windows in
your older home, but for a price that may not be repaid by
energy savings. The best multiple-glazed windows offer a
rating of R-8 and cost $150 to $350 apiece. Installation
labor can up the cost to $500 per window.
A metal-and-foam—sandwich entry door carries an R-15
rating. If used with a good, airtight dual-glazed wood or
metal-and-foam storm/screen door, the entry's R-rating will
approximate the wall's. But, such an entry can cost $1,500
or more to install. Also, when replacing any window, check
your building code. It may require that old nonwood
casements come out, increasing the whole expense.
Using costly high-tech methods isn't the only answer.
Jalousies, sunshades, lattice blinds, and awnings also help
insulate doors and windows. They are just as effective
today as sun and heat radiation barriers as they were in
Scarlet O'Hara's day.
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