Flushed with Victory
How to fix basic toilet problems, including detailed diagram, troubleshooting.
 |
Toilets are easy to fix: All the working parts are right under the lid.
|
Toilet trouble on the home front?
RELATED ARTICLES
Here’s how to choose the best water-saving toilets....
DON'T BUY IT, MAKE IT June/July 1997 Inexpensive products for use around the house. by Scott Matthe...
A sawdust toilet, such as this one made from recycled materials, can come in handy when the house t...
Water-Wise Toilets June/July 2002
energy & environment
by Caro...
Most of us would agree that sanitary facilities are best
unseen and unheard. So, when your once-faithful toilet
breaks down, it's no wonder if you call in a professional.
Before you do, though, consider tackling the job yourself.
After all, the residential toilet consists of just two main
parts: the water tank and the bowl. Any
mechanical problems you'll meet will be in the tank,
because that's where the plumbing is. The bowl has no
moving parts and succumbs only to stoppage or seal failure
at the closet flange, where it's bolted to the floor.
Begin by removing the tank lid and setting it in a safe
place (it's probably made of vitreous china and may crack
if dropped). If sluggishness or clogging isn't a problem,
flush the commode and watch what happens. Ideally, the
stopper or flap ball will lift, releasing
flush water to the bowl; simultaneously, as the water level
in the tank drops, the float will drop, opening
the ballcock valve to let fresh household water
flow into the now-empty tank through a filler
tube. At the same time, a refilltube refills the bowl's reservoir through an
overflow pipe.
Once you've released the flush handle, the stopper ball
falls back into its seat . . . and the water level in the
tank rises, raising the float and closing the ballcock
valve. Should the ballcock malfunction, the overflow pipe
will drain excess water into the bowl and eventually out
the plumbing waste pipe.
Now for the problems. If water keeps running after a flush,
either the ballcock valve is damaged, the float is set too
high (or has a leak), the float mechanism is hanging up on
another part, or the stopper ball isn't seated properly.
You can determine what's wrong without draining the tank
simply by examining the float arm or the stopper rod or
chain. Adjust or bend the arm so the maximum water level is
about one inch below the top of the overflow pipe and so
the float can rise and fall freely. If possible, remove the
float and shake it; if there's water inside, replace the
float.