Ten Tidbits from passive '85

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[9] Radiant barriers are one of the most effective means to passively cool buildings. A layer of aluminum foil (one that's highly reflective to far-infrared radiation) placed next to an air space in the attic of a home can cut overall heating and cooling loads by 10% in southern climates and by 5% as far north as Chicago. The cooling capability of R-19 insulation and a radiant barrier system is roughly equal to that of R-30 insulation. The material used to coat fiberglass board ducting—made of aluminum, kraft paper, and fiberglass reinforcing—makes a good radiant barrier and can be purchased for less than 5¢ per square foot.

RELATED CONTENT

Ventilation is still the most effective means of passive cooling, but the absorption of moisture into (and desorption from) building materials leads to overestimates of its effectiveness and underestimates of indoor humidity. A building opened for night ventilation and actively cooled during the day will have a significantly higher relative humidity all times than one that is continuously air-conditioned. Wind-induced ventilation is the most effective form (followed by cross ventilation enhanced by wing walls) and will easily overwhelm stack effects. from a cooling tutorial presented by P. Fairey of FSEC, and "Advanced Passive Solar Design, " presented by J.D. Balcomb and R. Jones of BSA.

[10] In southern regions, such as Florida, more solar radiation falls on the north wall than on the south wall of a building from May through July.But by far the bulk of the solar gain comes from the east and west. For that reason—and because so much heat gain comes from diffuse radiation-southern shading overhangs are not a panacea for cooling. External window shades, reflectors, and vegetative shading on at least the east and west windows are the most effective techniques. from a cooling tutorial by P. Fairey of FSEC, and "Vegetative Shading . . . in Warm-Humid Climates," by J. Parker and P. Shlachtman of Florida International University.

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