Thermal Cover-ups: Part II

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MAKING A SANDWICH

To make a pop-in shutter, measure the window you want to cover. Originally, we intended to treat our entire expanse of one large picture windowpane and two double-hung units with one shutter . . . but we discarded this idea because of the unwieldiness and weight of a thermal covering that large. The smaller panels we settled for produced one unexpected bonus: They can be put in place without disturbing the existing draperies.

If your own windows stand perfectly true and square, sizing the frames will be a breeze. Otherwise, to custom-fit the framing strips, first measure the opening from side to side and cut two wood pieces to fit, using either a handsaw or a circular saw. Then stack these two members on top of each other on the windowsill, and measure the interior vertical gap to size the remaining two framing strips. You can recheck the fit after you've cut the wood by wedging the members in on top of the stacked pieces and adjusting as necessary. If there are differences in those measurements, mark the strips "top", "bottom", and "side".

After that's done, take the strips to a level workspace such as a bench or a concrete floor to lay out and assemble the frame. We used 1-1/4" 3d finishing nails to secure our strips, then reinforced each right angle with an inset corner brace. (Hint: It's easier to insert the screws in the corner braces if you first rub a little soap on them.)

Next, take the finished frames and recheck their fit in the window, using a wood file to smooth off any still-tight places. After setting a frame on the polystyrene, scribe the inner dimensions of the wood onto the beadboard with a marking pen. Cut out the foam block with a long-bladed utility knife. Then flip the frame over, draw another rectangle on a second section of foam, and cut it out. Mark the position of the two foam blocks for future reference ("top", "bottom", "facing into the frame", and so forth).

If you used corner braces, you'll need to bevel the inside corners of the polystyrene pieces a bit so that the blocks will fit snug against the braces. Once you're satisfied with how the beadboards fit, take them out and apply the adhesive in a swirl pattern to the interior surfaces of the foam sections . . . and run several additional beads of the adhesive along the inside of the frame. Then press the two pieces of foam gently to spread the glue around.

Now, pull the polystyrene sections apart, add glue to any dry spots (your glue may need to "cure" a bit before final sealing), and place them in the frame. To form a tight seal, run some last beads of adhesive around the edges of the frame where they're butted by the polystyrene. You can then lay the assembly flat on a floor or workbench and weight it with a moderately heavy object until the panel is dry.

Our pop-ins fit snug enough to stay in our windows without any additional fastening. However, if your thermal shutters are a tad loose, it might be a good idea to fasten hardware-store turn buttons in several spots around the edge of the window frame to hold in the polystyrene panes.

We finished the insulative shutters with a coat of leftover latex paint (don't use an oil based one, since it might harm the foam). You can put several posters on yours . . . for a kind of "gallery" effect, or, if you're willing to invest a few more dollars, you can decorate the polystyrene with a cloth covering or glue some wallpaper over it. And, of course, the inserts may be left unadorned, particularly if you'll be covering them with curtains.

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