THE HOMEMADE THERMAL SHADE

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THE VARIOUS OPTIONS

Before you actually start cutting and stitching, pick out one of the designs listed below and round up the rest of the components that you'll need to construct your quilt.

Model 1: This option consists of a layer of batting-backed quilted material, then a layer of 4-mil polyethylene (the vapor barrier), another layer of polyester batting, and finally, the muslin backing. The expense for the additional layer of polyester filling ($1.00), plus the polyethylene (we used one-third of a 65¢ drop cloth, for a cost of 22¢), brought the total to $9.87. (One of Mother's staffers used plastic garbage bags, which cost a nickel apiece, to serve as vapor barriers in some thermal shades she constructed.)

Model 2: This window cover consists of a layer of quilted fabric, a polyethylene bubble sheet (the material — which provides a vapor barrier and an additional air space — is used to wrap items for shipping), and a muslin backing. You should be able to scrounge bubble packing if you're resourceful, but you could purchase as much as you'll need for this project for about $1.35.

Model 3: Our third design consists of quilted fiberfill ($2.25) backed by a nonporous reflective material such as Mylar, which is used in the heat-retaining "space blankets" carried by many backpackers. We used a twin-sized space blanket ($3.75), which brought our total (including Velcro) to $11.45 for this option. This is perhaps the least efficient model because it lacks the bulk to thoroughly block air drafts, but it's definitely well suited to applications in which light weight is of primary importance.

The main difference between these versions and Mike Westbrook's window curtain is the added vapor barrier. Other refinements include the use of the prequilted fabric, which is easier to work with than loose fiberfill and which doesn't have to be tie quilted to prevent slippage (indeed, you should not puncture the vapor barrier, except at the edges where it's necessary to attach the Velcro, in order to be sure the layer will offer maximum resistance to moisture and air flow).

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

After the windows have been measured, the components of the shade selected, and the pattern pieces cut out, it's time to pay close attention to the assembly of the thermal "sandwich." Start off by placing the quilted fabric right side up on a table, then lay the backing layer (either muslin or Mylar) directly on top, right side down. Next, add the other components to the top or bottom of the stack. (When you use this method, you can be sure that you won't wind up ripping out seams because you've gotten the wrong side facing inward.)

Once you've added and pinned the polyethylene, batting, packing bubbles or whatever, thread your sewing machine (using a large-sized needle) and set it for a fairly long stitch (this adjustment will keep the polyethylene and batting from becoming bogged down in the machine's feed dogs). Now, after making absolutely certain that your backing material and quilted fabric are right sides together, sew along the outer edges of your window quilt. You'll probably find yourself taking wide seams to insure catching every layer in the stitching. We did this, too, and as a result our first effort wound up a little smaller than was desired. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you cut the components with rather large (1-to-11/2-inch) seam allowances, as suggested previously.

Continue sewing around three sides of the curtain, leaving a generous opening on the fourth edge. Now, turn the whole bulky package right sides out, being careful to square the corners, and finish up by slip-stitching the open edge closed.

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