You Can Build Sawhorses

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Over the last 15 years, I’ve built a dozen sawhorses following my own design (see photo above or in the image gallery). Each one uses a 5-foot long 2-by-6 cross-member, with 2-by-4 legs and diagonal braces, and 1-by-4 cross-braces.

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The best material for sawhorses also happens to be the cheapest: general-purpose, construction-grade lumber. It’s strong and plentiful, though there’s a hitch. This wood often splits easily when screws are driven into it. That’s why it’s essential to pre-drill screw holes, especially into the angled top ends of the legs. This doesn’t guarantee freedom from splitting, but it does minimize it.

Use 2 1/2-inch- and 3 1/2-inch-long weatherproof galvanized screws for assembly. They hold better than anything else, are easy to drive and won’t rust. You can also take screws out to reposition parts as you’re putting your sawhorses together. Take the extra trouble to apply weatherproof wood glue to all joints and your sawhorse will be stronger and last longer.

For another option, read The World's Best $6 Sawhorse. Do you have your own technique for building sawhorses? Share your ideas in the comments section below.

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Comments

  • Bob Robblee 1/30/2009 9:07:43 AM

    It is just about 30 years since the hole was excavated for my house, which I built. At the start, and during the construction of the concrete forms for the basement, I used sawhorses, which I cussed as I attempted to use them on the uneven ground of the site. In an inspired moment which I cannot recall, I built a miniture outdoor table. It resembles a single sawhorse with a top having 2 pieces of 2"x12" fir added. And, the problem of the uneven site disappeared.
    For 30 years I have used it and 3 others for carpentry and other construction, as well as a portable table in the garage alongside a vehicle on which I am working. And I believe that if anyone uses one, they will add tops to any sawhorses, commerical or homebuilt that they have. I have tried a commercial clamp type sawhorse and went back to using my own.
    With it, only one is really needed and it do all the tasks mentioned in the article with ease. Two would be better for lumber of longer than 12 foot lengths.
    Last summer, my son in law and I started on the planned expansion of their home. He built his own saw horse table with one minor modification and it is working as well as the ones in the past. If you build one of these to try, remember to leave a space of 3" or so between the top planks. That will allow easy sawing of full sheets of plywood. If any other details are neeed, contact me.
    Regards,
    Bob Robblee

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