How To Build Long-Lasting Gates

(Page 2 of 2)

August/September 2007
Troy Griepentrog 
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Align hinges carefully

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Here's the tricky part. If the pivot point of the hinges isn't on a perfectly straight line, they'll bind and creak as you move the gate. If they're really out of alignment, the gate won't swing at all. If the edge of the gate or post is perfectly straight (check it with a level or square), you can usually simply align the hinges along the edge of the gate or post ? turn them to 90 degrees of being opened and they provide a naturally straight edge to position against the piece you're attaching them to. Using this method generally leaves a small gap between the post and the gate, which reduces pinching.

Another option is to snap a chalk line (or draw a line with a straight edge) and align the hinges accordingly. The gate will swing if the hinges are aligned, but if the pivot points aren't plumb, the gate will likely swing open or closed when you let go of it.

If you want more details on building fences and gates, read the The Gate That Keeps On Swinging and Wood Fences.

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Comments

  • Tony Whyte 2/7/2008 12:21:26 PM

    Building a wide wooden gate that won't sag uing the techniques
    you have presented will work initally, however, gravity will soon
    take over. I recommend a steel truss frame to provide the strength.
    It will last forever without sagging. There are many on the market,
    some better than others. For an exceptionally good one take a look
    at GateBuilder truss frame kit by Southern Crossings
    Gates.

  • Roben Hamilton 11/21/2007 12:00:00 AM

    Great articles..I have just bought my new home with 2 black labs
    so I am looking to build the best sturdy as well as economical
    fence. Thanks for the great tips!

  • stephen derr 9/16/2007 12:00:00 AM

    great article did help me,thanks steve.

  • Paul Vancil 8/31/2007 12:00:00 AM

    I had a problem with shifting soil which would throw my gate
    post out of alignment. My solution;I set new gate post deeper than
    usual holding them in place with supports.Instead of two post
    holes, I dug an oblong trench from just beyond each post. I floated
    two pieces of angle iron making an X that crossed in the middle,
    putting each post within the open ends of the X.Then I poured and
    finished the concrete, resulting in a strong one piece frame. I had
    no more problems. Paul D. Vancil

  • STEVEN RUSSERT 8/28/2007 12:00:00 AM

    I had a gate that got a lot of traffic between the garage and
    the front door of the house. It had a spring to close it (and keep
    the sheltie in)but would gradually push the post on the latch side
    out of plumb from the many impacts. I finally made a latch that
    mounted at the bottom of the gate and linkage up to the handle so
    that the leverage of the latch on the post wasn't so bad, and it
    worked really well.

  • Esther Raichart 8/28/2007 12:00:00 AM

    Great article, and S. Russert, good comment! I now know why my
    gate wore out soon!

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