Build This Book Nook & Window Seat
(Page 3 of 5)
August/September 2007
By Steve Maxwell
If you’re working with salvaged cabinets, pry the thin back panel off, cut three-quarter-by-4-inch notches for mounting strips using a jigsaw, fasten the strips with screws, then replace the back panel. It doesn’t matter that the ends of the strips will be visible along the shelf sides. You can cover the surfaces later, giving them a consistent, refined appearance.
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Will you be building some or all of the book nook components from scratch? It’s really not difficult, especially if you use three-quarter-inch-thick veneered plywood or particleboard. A table saw, a bottle of glue, some 2-inch finishing nails and a hammer are the basic tools you’ll need. Alternating wood grain direction on the edges of plywood and particleboard make it possible to create strong butt joints using only glue and finishing nails. Cap any visible edges of the bench, shelf base and shelves with three-quarter-inch-thick by 2¼-inch solid wood and you’re done. The plan provides design guidance for making all parts of a build-it-yourself book nook.
What about the cabinet doors? Most building supply outlets offer ready-made cabinet doors that are ideal if you’re building your window seat from scratch. If you’ll be using salvaged doors, get them first, then build your shelf base cabinet and bench to suit.
STEP 4: INSTALL THE COMPONENTS
Locate wall studs, remove the baseboard, align all project parts with a level and don’t skimp on the mounting screws. These are the tricks of the trade when it comes to installing an attractive and stable book nook.
Start work with a tape measure, a roll of masking tape, a 24-inch level, some 3-inch-long deck screws and a cordless drill. Mark the wall area that the nook will occupy using masking tape, then use a stud finder to locate structural framing members hidden behind the wall surface. This is where you’ll need to drive screws to get a good grip.
Once you think you’ve found studs, double check by driving a screw into the wall. If you find solid wood, great! Mark the location just above the masking tape outline. If not, that’s OK, too. Drive your test screw in other locations until you hit something solid. It doesn’t matter if you mark the wall with a bunch of holes, because the bench and shelves will cover them. Premarking wall stud locations above the cabinet outlines lets you find the studs later, when the shelves and bench are in place and ready to be anchored.
Begin installation by sliding the bench into position, check to make sure it’s level and use shims to get the orientation just right. Anchor the bench to the wall with screws driven through the mounting strip and into the wall studs, as shown in the plan. Choose a screw that’s long enough to go through the cabinet, through the wall surface, and an inch into the underlying wall stud. You’ll find that #10 x 2½- or 3-inch flathead wood screws work well in most situations. Increase their holding power and improve their appearance by using cup washers underneath the screw heads. Also, drive a couple screws on an angle through the sides of the bench at the bottom and into the floor. These screws will be hidden later when you add the shelf base units.
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