Easier Plumbing with PEX

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Reaming. The pressure required to cut PEX doesn’t flatten the pipe completely, but it does create an oval profile that you need to correct. That’s why the next step in completing a joint involves widening the opening of the PEX line with a simple tool. The reaming tool does two things: It imparts a perfectly round shape to the inside of the pipe, while also chamfering (beveling) the inside edges of the opening to prevent damage to the O-rings that seal the fittings after assembly. Cutting and reaming each joint takes just seconds, but be sure you ream carefully and evenly. The inside edge of the PEX line end must be a smooth, beveled surface. If you leave behind a sharp edge or a stray piece of plastic, the all-important O-rings in the joint can become damaged and cause a leak.

Installing valves. When you install any new plumbing, you should test the system for leaks before hiding the pipes behind drywall or paneling. That’s why it’s a good idea as you work to install shut-off valves at the end of each run of PEX. Later, you’ll need the valves to shut off the water during fixture maintenance, but the valves also serve a useful and immediate purpose. You can turn on the main water supply valve and then bleed off air using each individual shut-off valve. This lets you look for water leaks that probably wouldn’t be visible if small amounts of air were leaking out of the pipe. Even if you forget to tighten or crimp a joint connection, the O-rings alone will often prevent leakage in PEX installations, at least temporarily. You should double-check that each joint is tight, even if the connection appears leak-free after you bleed off the trapped air.

If you’re plumbing a seasonal home and you plan to drain the system each fall, then install your PEX water lines on a slight slope toward a drain valve in a convenient location that will allow the water to run out. This way, you can easily drain water when you expect freezing conditions. Don’t guesstimate the slope, either. Measure, snap a chalk line and then bore holes to make an evenly tilted line through building frame members. Dips in the slope will result in PEX with left-behind pockets of water, which could result in cracking after numerous winter freezes.

Connecting to fixtures. Eventually, all your lines of PEX will connect to fixtures, faucets and water bowls that supply your house, barn and outbuildings. These fixtures are not made to accept PEX lines directly, so you’ll need to add transitions. The best way is to install a shut-off valve with a threaded end that’s designed to accept a flexible, reinforced supply line. Supply lines range in length from 8 to 24 inches and are made from neoprene, reinforced with a mesh of braided stainless steel that’s wrapped around the outside to increase the resistance to water pressure inside the line. Place the ends of each PEX line 8 to 12 inches away from where you think the connection point for your fixtures should be located. The braided flex line will get you the rest of the way without hassles.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print