Mother's Workshop: An Old-Fashioned Pie Safe

(Page 3 of 3)

October/November 1999
by John Vivian 
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DOOR

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Cut three 17" horizontal rails and two 19" vertical stiles from T&G. Rip to 4"width. Lay out in an open rectangle with third rail as a central crossmember—horizontals over verticals—and mark where boards overlap. Using multiple, parallel, close saw cuts and a chisel, remove half the thickness of boards where they meet. Square parts up, apply plenty of epoxy and weight each joint with a brick.

PUNCHED-TIN INSERTS

Open both ends of #2, one-pound coffee cans. With tin snips, split can at welded seam. Trim off weld and both rims. Flatten between two boards.

Punch vent holes smaller than the head of a pin in order to exclude fruit flies. You'll need a sharply pointed "prick-punch," a hammer and a carefully modulated hammer hand. Set tin on a hardwood board and punch holes about X' apart in both directions. After door is finished, place tin, unpainted surface facing out, in epoxy and staple to inside of door openings.

SEALING

Seal all interior seams with a nontoxic, clear, flexible mastic. Install storm door, draft-proofing gaskets around inside of door frame.

FINISH AND TRIM

Fill countersinks with plugs or buttons.

Stain or paint exterior as you like. Paint the inside with several coats of white hard-gloss enamel for easy cleaning and to prevent molds from infiltrating the wood.

Attach door with matching offset hinges and latch.

MATERIALS

WOOD: #10, 1/2" x 6"x 8' pine tongue-and-groove (T&G) paneling/siding; #5, 5/4 x 5/4" x 8' true-inch-square hardwood baluster stock; (for unseen back, 1/4 " or 3/8" plywood to fit).

HARD GOODS: offset hinges and latch for flush door; fasteners: 1", 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" deck/drywall screws; cement: 30-minute epoxy; mastic: nontoxic, flexible sealer/adhesive; countersink plugs or buttons; finishing materials as required.

TOOLS

Tin snips; combination-blade saw (hand or power); right angle steel and pencil; electric drill/driver; 1/8" pilot-hole countersink/drill bit; block plane or utility knife stapler; bricks or blocks for support/weighting.

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  • S 9/24/2008 9:37:31 AM

    My antique pie safe (rickety, loose, and hard to close) is made of poplar. Even during insect invasions in the rest of my kitchen cabinets, larvae never have shown up in any of the cereals, etc., stored in my old pie safe. None of my favorite woodworking people will believe me when I suggest that poplar repels insects. Maybe someone here can tell me.

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