HOME WIRING REPAIRS IN THE REAL WORLD

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In cases involving more than one switch, if you're replacing the switches for cosmetic purposes (such as remodeling), you must buy all of them. But if you want to replace only the defective switch in a multi-switch job, you have two options: swapping a new switch with each suspected one until the light works, or using a multimeter or test light to locate the bad apple in the bunch. If you don't know how to test a switch, then swapping is probably your best bet. All that's left is choosing the color and style of your new switch and — if you make a change in either category — buying a new coverplate. Color and style will also play a part in choosing a new receptacle, but location will be the most important factor.

The National Electric Code now requires the use of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) in many areas of your home. These areas include bathrooms, kitchen counters within six feet of a sink, cellars, garages, and all outdoor locations. A GFCI is a "smart" receptacle: it can detect an electrical "leak" (possibly through you to the ground) and shut itself off in a fraction of a second. Any other receptacles you buy must be the three-pronged, grounded type.

As for light fixtures, be sure to choose one with the same or lesser wattage as the one you're replacing, unless you are aware of the load connected on the circuit. Also, don't forget about the unit's capacity (will it provide enough light?) and its weight. A heavy chandelier should be hung from a steel box directly attached to a wood framing member, and, to satisfy most building codes, a fan-light combination needs to be hung from a special steel fan box that uses lock nuts. So if you buy something along those lines and your old box doesn't measure up, be prepared to use the old hammer and saw.

Pulling the Plug

Once you have the proper tools and replacements, you're ready for the most important part of the job — shutting off the power. If you end up working on 120-volt outlets, switches, receptacles, etc., that have not been turned off, you risk a severe shock. If you are working on wiring for 240-volt outlets (dryer outlets, range outlets, etc.) and you haven't properly killed the juice, the juice can kill you. Thanks to incomplete or nonexistent circuit labeling, "killing the juice" can be an adventure in most houses. And you can't use a defective fixture as a reference because it doesn't work with the power on or off. You need intimate knowledge of your home circuitry to kill only the circuit involved in the repair. Two or more switches grouped in one box are particularly dangerous; one may control lights for a floor or room beyond where the switch is located (like a stairway or garage), and remain "hot" (carrying a voltage greater than 0) even when that room's power is off. Also, be on the lookout for "sub-feed" boxes — found in your cellar or other out-of-the-way places — that could be feeding some rooms of your home. These boxes get power from one cable out of the main distribution box and then split it, by way of fuses or circuit breakers, into several smaller circuits. Years ago, they were a cheap and convenient way for electricians to satisfy homeowners' needs for more power. They typically feed some of the last circuits installed in your home. If you flip a branch circuit breaker off, or unscrew a branch circuit fuse, working lights on the circuit should go off, or the test light attached to the receptacle should go off. But even after imparting all that wisdom, I'm going to finish with this recommendation: when in doubt, go to the main distribution panel (fuse box, circuit breaker box), and either pull the main fuse or shut off the main breaker to cut power to the entire house. Make sure you have a strong flashlight, and work during daylight hours. Before removing any fixture, double check with a testing device to be sure the circuit is dead.

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