The Martin Birdhouse

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Note B Use a carpenter's square to make sure the struts are 90 degrees to the post and parallel to each other. If not, all of the subsequent stacked storeys will be out of alignment.

Attach the cross struts to the central post using 1/4" x 6" lag bolts with large washers, three per side. Reverse the "pattern" on the other side. Use hot-dipped galvanized bolts. Also use 1/2" dowels for the perches. Keep them under 1 foot long or the weight of many birds may snap them off. The floor of the bottommost storey should be lag-bolted to the cross struts using two 1/4" x 3" bolts with washers per strut.

Note C The inner and outer walls should be nailed to their respective floors from the bottom.

Note D All the entrance holes should be 2 1/2" in diameter. I would purchase a circular hole saw to be used in a drill motor or brace for this purpose. Barring that, have fun with a keyhole saw.

Note E Screen off the attic. It will be too hot in there for young birds to survive. You want it vented, but unoccupied.

Note F Use 1/2" x 8" galvanized bolts for the pivot bolt (upper) and keeper bolt (lower). Double nut both bolts so little fingers won't "accidentally" pull the bolts out. Also, for safety's sake, it will take at least two people to raise and lower the structure. The post itself should be a standard 4 x 4, 12 to 20 feet in length. The top of the post has two angle cuts and a hole in the center. Drill the hole before cutting the angles. The angles are the same as the roof slope. Use the attic front wall for a template.

The outer pivot posts are standard 2 x 4 pressure-treated wood, 5 feet in length (2 feet in the ground). Give the whole structure a good concrete footing.

Note G The roof will naturally have to be covered to protect the wood and inhabitants below. You can use standard composite roof shingles, rolled roofing, a piece of tin or copper, or any other waterproof material at hand. I have even flattened out aluminum pop cans for shingles. You can square cut the roof panels and fill in the resulting gap at the peak with a putty made from waterproof glue and sawdust. The roof hold-down unit, which consists of a block, a bolt, and a washer, should be sealed with silicone each time it is taken out and reassembled. This unit goes on top of whatever you use for roofing material.

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