Build an Adirondack Chair: the Ultimate Outdoor Furniture
(Page 3 of 7)
June/July 1997
By John Vivian
Plug Holes: If you have a drill press, use your plug-cutter to make plugs from a scrap piece of wood. Otherwise, buy plugs to fit your countersink. Once the fastener is in and snug, fill each countersunk screw hole with 2-part epoxy and tap in a plug.
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With a sharp knife or wood chisel, shave top of plug even with surface, wipe off excess glue, and sand smooth when dry.
In building the chair, measure parts and cutting angles following the Cutting Guide and make arms and lower legs using the patterns.
The Side Frames
1. Using the pattern, cut two rear-leg/seat-supports from 2x4x6 boards.
2. From the Cutting Diagram, cut two front legs and two back supports from 2x4s.
3. Place one front leg atop one rear leg so it fits into dotted lines on pattern. Line them up so bottom edges of both are on a line—as they will set flat on the ground. Fasten with three screws (in a triangle) inserted from the inside out (from front leg into rear leg). Don't drill and fasten with carriage bolt yet.
4. Fasten back support to rear leg so it too fits into lines on pattern. Use three self-tapping screws. No bolt yet.
5. Make another side frame that is a mirror image of the first ...but just tack in place ...don't tighten screws.
6. Hold the two side frames against one another. Remove wood screws and adjust board alignment in second-built as needed so all leg bottoms rest flat on the floor and corresponding parts on both frames are identically aligned. Now tighten all screws.
7. Drill a 7/16" hole through the middle of all four joints. Insert and tighten a 3/8” x 3 5/8” galvanized carriage bolt with large flat washers behind nut.
8. While you can easily lay the side frames flat, cut out attach the triangular front arm supports to the top outer side of each front leg. Be sure top of the triangular support and square-cut top of leg form a flat horizontal surface for the arm to rest on. Attach with epoxy cement and two horizontal screws from leg into support and a third up-angling screw from support into leg
9. Similarly, cut from scrap 2x4s the two cleats that attach to the inner top edges of the vertical back supports. Be sure the lower edges of the cleats are perpendicular to the long edges of the back supports. Fasten with two screws from leg to cleat and a third from cleat into leg.
The Framework
1. Following the Cutting Guide, cut one front leg to front leg cross-brace and two back cross-braces from 2x4s.
2. Block up side frames as they will stand—leg bottoms flat and horizontal members square and plumb (that is, seatslat length apart, sides perpendicular to the ground and opposing members parallel to one another).
3. Tack-fasten (insert one screw, not cinched tight) the upper back brace to the back supports so it is snug up against bottom of cleats.
4. Tack-fasten bottom back brace so it is snugged down against top edges of backleg/seat boards.
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