On Becoming Unplugged
Building non-electrical woodshop tools, including a basic brace, auger bits and adjustable mouth block plane.
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Rekindle an age of cheap, efficient woodworking
tools in your home.
By Robert Houghton
The average construction site is full of hard-working men
and women sweating over their craft while attached like
marionettes to the electrical grid. You'll see them waving
thousands of dollars worth of candy-col ored power tools
over their work, while trailing miles of copper gossamer
back to the nearest generating station. Ask one of them to
drill an oak plank two inches beyond the reach of their
longest extension cord, however, and they become as
productive as a three-year-old bruising grass with a toy
mower. Those that quick-draw a battery-powered tool in
response to such a challenge will lose their snugness after
the tenth or eleventh hole.
We seem to have forgotten what some of history's best
craftspeople had no choice but to understand: The right
hand tool, with a generous application of human muscle and
skill, does the job quickly and well. A hand tool is on
intimate terms with the material it works in ways that a
shrieking, woodshredding, finger-risking power tool cannot
approach. Despite the trend toward "more power," a hand
tool is always a cheaper—and often more
efficient-alternative to the plugin come—latelys.
I've equipped my own toolbox with a few secret weapons that
make me a more productive, perhaps even more graceful,
worker than my plugged—in partners.
The need for a board to pass daylight is fundamental in
construction, and nothing bores kilowatt-free holes through
wood better than a brace and bit. Originating in fifteenth
century Europe, shaped like a set of handlebars, the modern
carpenter's brace with spring-loaded split jaws and ratchet
was introduced in 1864. By pushing on the brace's pivoting
"head" end and turning the middle, the carpenter can rotate
a cutting bit fixed in its "chuck" end continuously, and
with tremendous force. A ratchet allows the brace to be
used in close quarters where it can't be turned full
circle.
Although a brace will accept any drill, an auger bit with a
lead screw which pulls the cutting edge into the wood is
most efficient. I always keep a few augers in the common
sizes up to one inch in my toolbox, along with an expansion
bit that can be adjusted to drill any size hole from one to
three inch diameters.
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