Garden And Yard Build The Planting Bench of your dreams
(Page 4 of 9)
The Eight Steps
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1. First, lay your boards.
Lay out the peg back-board, and the pine leg-boards and peg
panels that make up the sides—arranged as though the
sides were hinged to the back so they open up and lie fiat
like an old-fashioned folding vanity mirror. You will glue
and staple the sides together and attach the cleats that
hold shelves to back and sides.
Place the back-board on a really big work table or a floor
you don't mind getting glue on. Face the shiny, finished
surface up, and arrange it so the smooth, even
factory-finished, 4-foot-long edge is locat ed at the top.
At each side-butted tight against the long sides of the
peg-board-lay the longest boards, the 8-inch-wide,
6-foot-long rear legs. Face the best side of each board
down, as that's the side that will be open to view. Tap the
boards so their top edges are 1/4-inch below the top edge
of the peg-board back (giving you a strip of hardboard to
fasten the topshelf board to).
Center a long straight-edge along the bottom of the rear
legs. (An 8-foot-long 2 x 4 is easiest, so long as it is
not warped.) This defines the floor line—where the
bench legs will meet the floor.
Arrange the 3-inch-wide front-leg boards (with their bottom
edges along the floor line) two feet to the outside of and
parallel to the rear legs.
Put one of the two peg-board side-pan els on top of each
pair of leg boards, rough side up and longer dimension up
and down. Side edges of panels should be even with outer
margins of legs, upper edges even with the upper ends of
the legs, lower edges about 6"from the floor line and Y"
lower than the bottom of the back panel.
2. Fasten side panels to legs, and install
side-trim boards.
Scribe lines on the wood legs around the peg-board so you
can remove the panels and replace them precisely.
Remove the peg-board panels, turn downside-up to expose the
shiny side, and brush light coats of woodworkers' glue
where they overlap leg boards. Brush glue on the wood
beneath as well. Place glued surfaces together, lining
adjoining edges and corners precisely, and fasten pegboard
to wood with staples (or with flatheaded tacks)-two rows
down each leg boardfasteners 3/4" or 1" in from each edge,
every three inches.
Turn assembled sides over and measure across the peg-board
between inner margins of legs. Cut four 4-inch-wide trim
boards to fit snugly into the (about 13" ) spaces between
inner margins of the leg boards at both top and bottom of
both sides. Measure precisely and use a sharp saw blade to
cut perfectly straight, dean, and square. The cut ends butt
up to factory-straight edges, and wobbly saw cuts will
leave small but telling gaps that betray amateurish work.
Apply glue to peg and to insides of trim boards, align
outer margins of trim boards with edges of peg panels, turn
over and staple. Let dry overnight.
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