Build a Pole Barn for Animal Shelter: I Built A Pole Barn For Under $3,000

(Page 6 of 6)

February/March 1995
By Ellen Franklin 
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The last thing to go up are 8' lengths of galvanized ridge cap. This is fastened with the same screws. All you need worry about is getting it down the centerline of the roof and overlapping ends of meeting sections for a foot or so to keep out blowing rain. Aim the top section of the overlap away from the prevailing wind.

RELATED CONTENT

Close It In?

You can sink a pair of taller poles reaching from ground level to roof peak at the midpoint of each end, plus a pair of poles between that middle and each outer pole, to close in the ends. Run more stringers across the tops just as you did for the sides of your barn and one row at ground level all around the building except in the doorways. Evenly space two rows of any 2" lumber around the walls to give you a surface to nail siding to, then fasten on siding of more overlapping corrugated roofing, plywood or rough boards to create a 6-bay open-front equipment shed. Or, close it in and hang doors at one or both ends to keep livestock or to use for dry storage. Box in the eaves and add a woodstove for heat. After a season of wear, paint the metal for longest life. If you like, you can fancy it up with windows, electrical wiring or plumbing, and stick on a cupola or a wind vane. I didn't close this barn in because I wanted to use it in the hot New Mexico summers to keep rabbits cool, but other possibilities are wide open.

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  • tony 11/12/2008 1:47:50 PM

    I know this is an old post but I'd like to respond to discourage anyone reading this like I am from buying 'used' trusses for a project like this.
    Allow me to explain why:
    First off I design trusses for a living. I engineer trusses specifically for each building they are designed for. I factor in the width of the wall they will be bearing on, the special loading for that region and the building codes specific to the area that they are destined for. I also factor in proper spacing and how each trusse interacts with the other (usually in hip settings).
    The problem with used trusses (especially in this situation where the trusses aren't even the same!!!) is what they were designed for. Now in this pole barn Ellen spaced the trusses 4 foot on center. Prior to 1998 or 1999 trusses were not required to be stamped with loading and spacing. In fact many weren't. If Ellen's trusses were designed to be placed 2 foot on center and were instead placed 4 foot on center then you have a big problem. The trusse would not meet engineering criteria. Moving it from 2 foot on center to 4 foot on center would increase top and bottom chord deflection and cause chord failure. The bearings also would fail as well as webs. Now because we intrinsically 'over engineer' trusses to ensure they survive worst case scenarios the trusses may last for awhile or even years. However the roof would be VERY unsafe, perhaps even failing under a severe thunder storm or some added snow load.
    If you do decide to use a set of used trusses (which is acceptable with a little care) you MUST determine if your building meets the requirements of the trusse. Look for the following:
    A) Loading. The Loading will be stamped on trusses designed after 1998/99. It will be somethig like 50 or 80 or 100. Or perhaps 30/10/10, 50/10/10 or some such thing. Check your local building codes and get the loading for your area. If the loading is a single number like 50 then add

  • tony 11/12/2008 1:47:18 PM

    I know this is an old post but I'd like to respond to discourage anyone reading this like I am from buying 'used' trusses for a project like this.
    Allow me to explain why:
    First off I design trusses for a living. I engineer trusses specifically for each building they are designed for. I factor in the width of the wall they will be bearing on, the special loading for that region and the building codes specific to the area that they are destined for. I also factor in proper spacing and how each trusse interacts with the other (usually in hip settings).
    The problem with used trusses (especially in this situation where the trusses aren't even the same!!!) is what they were designed for. Now in this pole barn Ellen spaced the trusses 4 foot on center. Prior to 1998 or 1999 trusses were not required to be stamped with loading and spacing. In fact many weren't. If Ellen's trusses were designed to be placed 2 foot on center and were instead placed 4 foot on center then you have a big problem. The trusse would not meet engineering criteria. Moving it from 2 foot on center to 4 foot on center would increase top and bottom chord deflection and cause chord failure. The bearings also would fail as well as webs. Now because we intrinsically 'over engineer' trusses to ensure they survive worst case scenarios the trusses may last for awhile or even years. However the roof would be VERY unsafe, perhaps even failing under a severe thunder storm or some added snow load.
    If you do decide to use a set of used trusses (which is acceptable with a little care) you MUST determine if your building meets the requirements of the trusse. Look for the following:
    A) Loading. The Loading will be stamped on trusses designed after 1998/99. It will be somethig like 50 or 80 or 100. Or perhaps 30/10/10, 50/10/10 or some such thing. Check your local building codes and get the loading for your area. If the loading is a single number like 50 then add

  • Charles 12/15/2007 6:22:29 AM

    Cpuld you e-mail me a copy of your print. Thanks

  • Ty 11/17/2007 10:37:40 AM

    I commend your courage to undertake such an endevour. I am a 200
    lb., 28 year old male and undertaking this project is hard to
    swallow. You've inspired me to do it, but I was wondering where
    would be a good place to look for telephone poles for this project.
    Let me guess the telephone company? Thankyou Ellen

  • thomas 10/9/2007 8:25:33 PM

    is there any way to get better and biger pictures?

  • Donald 8/26/2007 11:17:45 PM

    I want to buid a 3 bay barn with a loft myself

  • vonstrudel 7/16/2007 8:17:59 PM

    I printed the article for future use but the way the diagrams are
    in the gallery they are very small and difficult to see. Can you
    send me a copy of the pics in the gallery? I would certainly
    appreciate that. I had no idea they would be so difficult to access
    in a viewable and printable form. Without the pics the directions
    are not so goo. Thanks.

  • Dan 6/1/2007 4:04:58 PM

    Enjoyed reading this article, however where are the diagrams
    mentioned in the article? Thanks in advance.
    &nbsp;
    Mother Responds: The photos are in the Image Gallery to the top
    right of the article, under "Related."

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