Backyard Shed
(Page 9 of 12)
August/September 1993
By John Vivian
Replace ply (over flashing), and final-fasten with 6d nails—first to center of top plate, then every 4" to alternating sides. Nail every 6" to studs in a line under midline of rafters, and finally nail to sleeper. Alternate angled nails every 2" along seams. Nail every 3" around cutouts.
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Measure, trim and fasten side and back sheathing so bottom edges are horizontal and even with the front. Keep it square, and with seams over studs. You can mark the angled top cuts of side sheathing against upper edge of end rafters; measure carefully (at least twice) to get the backwall sheathing correct.
Along bottom of sheathing, bend flashing up and out at 90°. Fasten 5/4" x 6 x 8 PT skirt boards to sill with 8d nails. Upper edge of skirt should be under lip of flashing, and lower edge overlaps top of blocks and sandwiches edge of roll-roofing placed atop blocks. Bend exposed edge of sheathing down over skirt to form a drip edge.
Now, add doors and windows. Trim away flashing in door opening if building a flush door. For installing a prehung door, bend flashing in along floor edge and put a bead of caulk on front lip. Push box into rough opening till outer trim boards are tight against wall all around. Tap shim shingles between jack stud and box frame, using level to assure that frame is level and plumb. Carefully release door and adjust shims as needed till door swings freely and closes without binding. (Don't push shims in too far, as you can bow the frame and the door will stick.) Then, fasten box through shims to studs. For added door sill strength, cut a strip of PT skirting and fasten under lip of door sill.
The Roof
Tack lengths of any 1"-thick trim wood to front of rafters, so upper edge of trim boards is even with point of rafters. Take plywood or particleboard to roof, and adjust so that sheets are square to frame, edges are butted close down middle of a rafter, and front and back edges are even. Align lower front edge of roof with face of tacked-on trim, leaving extra roof to hang off back. A few inches will jut out.
Working on the ladder, tap rafters off plates, and get one centered under each joint in roof sheeting. Use your try square to make sure that each rafter is square to the plate. Final-fasten rafters to plates with "U"-shaped rafter brackets or universal joining brackets. Remove tacked-on trim from front of rafters.
Then go up on the roof. At joints, fasten roof sheeting to rafters every 2", alternating between sheets so two nails don't go in side by side (in other words, nails are set every 4" along the edge of any one sheet of plywood or particleboard).
Now, attach 1 x 6 trim to ends of the rafters in the front. Best is to nail on 1 x 6 x 16s, trimming one end. Or, nail on two 1 x 6 x 8s, being sure ends meet in the middle over a rafter end (fasten 2 x 4 nailing cleats to each side of rafter, long grain edge facing out).
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