Backyard Shed
(Page 8 of 12)
August/September 1993
By John Vivian
Square wall frames at the other end and then see if marked rafter fits. If so, cut out wedges in the master rafter and use it to mark 18 more. If master rafter can't be made to fit the other end by loosening braces and pulling on the frame a little, mark another to fit. Then free-hand a board that's a compromise between the two. Notch two like that; force one wall in and the other out to fit.
RELATED CONTENT
The Healthy Building Network’s Pharos Project aims to tap the collective knowledge of green buildin...
If you've ever had a good little shed, you know their usefulness ranks right up there with rakes, c...
Author constructs storage space for a little more than $1 per square foot, including planning, thou...
Put up a pole building (or pole barn) for a fast, solid and cost-effective workshop, storage space ...
Notch all rafters, and nail two together for each end. Fasten doubled-end rafters to front/back plates with 8d nails through narrowest part of front and rear notches; fasten with metal truss plates at sides. Top and bottom inside, put 8d nails at a 45° angle into plate. Place other rafters over wall studs and tack to plate with finishing nails sunk vertically and all the way in (so they won't interfere with fastening roof sheeting, but rafters can be removed easily if necessary).
Now, put in sidewall frames. Beginning at center of sidewall sleepers, place vertical 2 x 4s every 12" "on center" with narrow edge facing out and even with edges of sleeper and top plate.
You'll have to cut top ends to match the angle of the roof. To measure in place, center inner tip of 2 x 4s atop the on-center mark on sleeper and hold narrow edge against outside of end rafters (being sure that stud is perfectly plumb and square). Use outside bottom edge of rafter to mark angle of top cut. Saw this angle by adjusting the foot of your circular saw to 12.5°. Make several trial cuts to be sure angle is right.
Tack middle stud till you are sure sheathing joint meets squarely down its middle. But, final-fasten the rest top and bottom with small truss plates or by inserting 8d nails one inch from stud's cut end, and angling at about a 45° angle into sleeper or plate. To prevent splitting, drill a 1/16" pilot hole for each nail.
Siding
By now the leaves need raking, the pennant races are heating up, and you're anxious to finish the shed. Don't cut corners. Most of all, don't throw up wall ply and then teeter on a ladder while trying to trim it in place with a circular saw. The blade can kick back and throw you off the ladder. The studs are sheathed with T-1-11 plywood that can stain and rot prematurely from ground splash, so the bottom of the shed is trimmed with a skirt made from 3/5 x 6" PT decking lumber.
First, install sheathing to front wall. Beginning with two sheets meeting in a seam over the middle stud, tack on plywood—narrower ends up and textured side out. It is heavy and unwieldy stuff, but take the time to assure that bottom edges are level, that sides are square and that the splintery little lap joints meet over a stud. It should snug up against rafter bottoms and overlap sill by 2" or so.
On inside of ply, mark overrun at ends, as well as door and window openings. Mark bottom line of ply on face of sill. Remove ply, make cutouts and trim ends. Then, fasten 6"-side aluminum flashing with 3/4"-long, big-topped roofing nails every 6" all around sill (so lower edge extends 1 1/2" below bottom line of siding). Cut slits in lower 2" at corners. At door openings, make two cuts in flashing even with inner edges of jack stud, and bend the thin metal in.
Page:
<< Previous 1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 | 8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
Next >>
