Backyard Shed
(Page 7 of 12)
August/September 1993
By John Vivian
You want a standard 8' sheet of plywood to cover the entire front except for the bottom 4" or so of the sill (where you will attach the 6"-wide PT skirt board). So reduce studs by the combined thickness of sheet flooring, plus the thickness of 2 x 4 sleeper and plate, plus 2" (5 1/2" to 6" total). Trim nineteen 2 x 4 studs by this amount.
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Now, lay out the front wall frame. Lay one joined pair of boards (that will be the sleeper) up on the edge along the front of floor. Every 12" (at marks on outside of sill) set studs on edge with one end butted to inside of sleeper. Double studs at both ends. Place another joined 2 x 4 flat to ends of joists at top as the plate. Be sure studs at 4' intervals from center are squarely "on center" of the mark at top and bottom; they'll be nailers for sheathing joints. Tack sleeper and plate to nailers and end studs with two 12d nails through flat board, and halfway into cut end of each stud.
To be sure plywood sheets meet over a nailing stud, lay four plywood or particleboard floor sheets squarely atop frame. Start with the two center sheets over the central stud. Adjust studs as needed. Final-fasten studs to sleeper and plate and remove ply. Next, frame door and window openings according to your plan. (Set prehung doors and windows in place on the floor and box them top and sides, in place and not too snugly, with doubled 2 x 4s laid on edge.)
Nail flat-board braces to front of frame at a diagonal at each lower corner. Then tack four evenly spaced short boards extending 6" above front edge of floor. These will catch the bottom of the wall frame when you raise it. At the middle of the outer face of each endstud, tack two long ground-brace boards. Their long ends should aim toward the back so they'll slide forward on the ground and hold the frame as you raise it.
With a helper(s), raise the frame. Set it squarely to the floor and hold it up by tacking the rear end of ground braces to side sills. Nail sleeper even with front edge of floor, two 12d nails between each stud. Use truss plates to connect end studs to sill.
The Back Wall
For the rear wall, cut 19 studs 1 1/2" shorter than those in the front wall (2' shorter in heavy snow country). Then build and fasten the rear wall frame just as you did the front. Now you must notch rafters to fit flat atop plates. Be sure opposing ends of wall frame are square and plumb. Take a 2 x 4 up on a ladder and set it on edge atop and square to ends of the plates, bottom rear corner extending 2" beyond the back edge of the rear plate. There should be a 3" to 4" overhang in front. With a level, make vertical lines on the rafter off top edges of plates. Leaving rafter on plate, use the level to draw horizontal lines describing wedges (when removed, these wedges will let rafter rest flat on plate). On ends of both rafters, use level to draw vertical cutoff lines, showing the small wedge that must be removed to make each end vertical.
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